Comfort in the Cold: Wild Food in the Georgian Caucasus

Updated 29th September 2026 | Words by Kieran Creevy | Photography by Lisa Paarvio

Plumes of breath swirl and dance above me in the light of my headlamp. To my left, I can hear Lisa curl deeper into her sleeping bag. It’s my turn to make breakfast. First order of business: thick, hot coffee. Easing my way slowly through the narrow tent door, the rainfly slithers and crackles in the cold. With the door closed and the stove running, I can turn my attention to our surroundings. High in the Georgian Caucasus, we’re encircled in a spectacular amphitheatre of peaks, both jagged and smooth. Here, the mountains are much wilder, preserved from the infrastructure that dots many of the European ranges. With coffee made and grateful mumbles of thanks from inside the tent, I can get to work on our locally inspired breakfast of fresh cornbread and a simple bean stew: fuel for another day of winter trekking and snowshoeing on this 3-day adventure from Achkhoti village to Sno village through such an incredible landscape.

Lobio with mchadi: red bean, pepper and herb stew with corn flatbreads

Serves 2

Ingredients

Lobio (stew)

• 2 cups (about 400g) dried red kidney beans, soaked in water overnight
• 1 white onion, finely sliced
• 1 green pepper, roughly diced
• 1 cup flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped
• 1 vegetable stock cube, crumbled
• 1 tsp white pepper
• 1/2 tsp dried fennel powder
• 1/2 tsp black cumin powder
• 1/2 tsp coriander powder
• Water
• Salt – to taste
• 1 tbsp butter or ghee

Mchadi (cornbread)

• Approx. 1lb (450g) cornmeal or fine polenta
• 2 eggs
• 2 tsp sea salt
• 1 tsp chilli flakes
• 1 cup hard white cheese, cut into fine cubes
• 2 tbsp rapeseed or olive oil
• Water
  

Equipment

• Camping stove and fuel
• Pot with lid and skillet/frying pan
• Wooden spoon and spatula
• Zip-lock bag – to knead and store the dough

Storage

Mix the beans, parsley and stock cube together and store in a lightweight leakproof container. Store the onion, pepper and spices in a separate container. Insulated food jars work really well.

Method

Make the dough:

1. Mix together the cornmeal, chilli flakes, salt, eggs and oil.
2. Then add in the cheese and a little water at a time.
3. Knead until you have a smooth dough.
4. Store in a zip-lock bag or reusable container.

Cook the stew:

1. Light the stove and when burning correctly, reduce the heat to a simmer.
2. Add the butter/ghee and when gently sizzling, add the onion, pepper and spices.
3. Cook for 2-3 minutes.
4. Add the bean mix, stir well and pour over enough water to cover completely.
5. Increase the heat to full, cover with the pot lid and bring to a boil.
6. Reduce heat slightly, cook for 20 minutes or until the beans are soft, adding more water if necessary.
7. Taste and season with salt if needed.
8. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Cook the flatbreads:

1. Place a skillet on the stove and reduce the heat to medium.
2. Break off a golf ball sized lump of dough, roll between your hands until smooth and flatten.
3. Dust with a little cornmeal and place in the skillet.
4. There should be space in the skillet for 2-4 breads, depending on its size.
5. Dry fry for a few minutes on both sides until cooked through and the cheese starts to ooze out.
6. Serve the bean stew in an insulated food jar with some warm flatbread.