Ben Nevis may be Scotland’s most famous mountain, but Scotland’s most iconic peak is surely Buachaille Etive Mor, the instantly recognisable pyramid of rock that stands sentinel over the valley of Glen Coe. The mountain’s name, the pronunciation of which has been flummoxing English tourists for years, translates as ‘the Great Herdsman of Etive’. It’s an apposite moniker, as this hulking brute guards the glen like a shepherd tending his flock. The prominent landmark will be familiar to anyone who has walked the final stages of the West Highland Way or even driven the lonely A82 across Rannoch Moor. It’s an awe-inspiring view that stops plenty of Glencoe-bound visitors in their tracks.
Arguably, however, it is only by ascending ‘the Big Buachaille’ that you really get a sense of just how epic the landscape around Glen Coe really is. The climb offers the chance to get your hands on rock and bag two Munro tops in the process. But that classic ascent is just one of Glencoe’s memorable days out. There’s a plethora of similarly rugged peaks to bag in the local area, plus a host of other activities to enjoy – even if the weather turns dreich, to borrow a favourite Scots word. This includes everything from canyoning at Onich (hey, might as well get even wetter, right?) to indoor ice climbing in Kinlochleven, both just short drives from Glencoe village along the fringes of Loch Leven. Failing that, you could simply enjoy the cosy warmth of the legendary Clachaig Inn (and take advantage of its large drying room). In fact, there’s so much to do that you’ll probably struggle to fit it all into a weekend.
Glencoe stands as one of Scotland's premier hillwalking bases, offering unmatched access to some of the Highlands' most dramatic terrain. The valley sits at the heart of an exceptional mountain landscape, with the jagged peaks of the Aonach Eagach ridge to the north and the Three Sisters –Beinn Fhada, Gearr Aonach, and Aonach Dubh – dominating the southern skyline.
What makes Glencoe particularly special is the sheer variety within such a compact area. From challenging scrambles to gentler valley walks along the River Coe, there's something for every ability level. The nearby Buachaille Etive Mòr provides classic ridge walks, whilst the Lost Valley offers a more sheltered adventure between towering rock faces.
Practical advantages abound too. The A82 runs through the glen, making access straightforward, and accommodation options range from campsites to mountain huts and hotels. The National Trust for Scotland's visitor centre provides essential route information and weather updates. With multiple Munros on the doorstep and year-round walking possibilities, Glencoe delivers everything hillwalkers need in one spectacular location.
Impossible to ignore, the Buachaille is far more than a mountain. This long, curved rocky spine rises and falls more than 500 vertical feet over the course of nearly five miles. It’s a classic ridge walk that is the geological equivalent of a big dipper ride, a rocky rollercoaster replete with jaw-dropping mountain views. We’re not easing you in gently here – expect a steep, rough ascent plus an equally sharp, scrambly descent, with plenty of ups and downs in between over the boulder-strewn ridge. But you’ll also enjoy far-reaching views across desolate Rannoch Moor and the thrill of bagging four summits including the Buachaille’s highest point, Stob Dearg (3,353ft) – the first of the ridge’s two Munros. The route starts from the layby at Altnafeadh, a 15-minute drive out of Glencoe. It ascends via Coire na Tulaich before following the ridge all the way to the second Munro of the day, Stob na Bròige. There, you turn about and retrace your steps to a cairn on the southwest shoulder of Coire Altrium, following a steep line downhill that demands keen powers of concentration. The route out of Lairig Gartain is a squelchy path through peat hags to reach the A82. By the time you get back to Glencoe, you’ll be knackered but also utterly exhilarated.
Marking the western end of the formidable Aonach Eagach ridge, the Pap of Glencoe lies at the foot of the glen as the River Coe spills out into Loch Leven. Known in Gaelic as Sgorr na Ciche, (‘the peak of the breast’ – stop sniggering please), its distinctive conical profile is clearly visible from Glencoe, and the summit therefore makes an enticing prospect for those staying in the village. A reasonably fit and experienced hillwalker can expect to be up and down in under 5 hours, since – by the standards of the neighbouring mountains at least – the Pap is a wee bairn. However, the views from the top far surpass its diminutive stature. And it still shouldn’t be underestimated, since although the overall ascent is relatively modest, the terrain can be challenging. The simplest way up starts from the road between Glencoe village and the Clachaig Inn. Follow the rough pebble path up to the bealach between the Pap and Sgor nam Fiannaidh. This is a steep and boggy climb, while the final section of ascent is an untidy scramble that involves clambering among a mess of boulders. From the summit there are superb views of Loch Leven and the Mamores, as well as the Ballachulish narrows and Glencoe itself. Devote a clear day to climbing the Pap and you can expect panoramic vistas that rank among the best views to be had anywhere in the Highlands.
The Aonach Eagach traverse ought really to need no introduction – its reputation speaks for itself. Quite simply, this is indisputably one of the finest scrambles to be found anywhere in the UK. Classed as a Grade 2 scramble – at least in summer conditions, for in winter it is an altogether different proposition – the ridge is purportedly the narrowest in mainland Britain. Knife-edge doesn’t even cut it. It’s a significant step up in difficulty from something like Crib Goch or Striding Edge, and however you assess the challenge of Aonach Eagach, it’s likely to make you giddy, whether from excitement or fear. You’ll certainly need more than merely a good head for heights and a few hill days under your belt to even countenance it. There are numerous rocky chimneys, awkward slabby traverses, jutting pinnacles and tricky downclimbs to negotiate. As well as technical skill, it also requires good planning and total commitment, because in addition to being long, thin and highly exposed, there are few, if any, viable escape routes. That means nowhere to bail if it all gets too much. But, all those provisos aside, if you’ve got the mountain chops to take on Aonach Eagach, it will be an unforgettable experience. The ridge should be tackled from east to west, which also means you can finish with a well-deserved pint at the Clachaig Inn.
Though Bidean nam Bian is classed as a Munro top, it is more generally the name given to the entire mountain range on the south side of Glen Coe. It is a sprawling, complex mass of crags, corries, ridges and summits that keen hillwalkers could spend weeks exploring, let alone a weekend. However, for most visitors its major attractions are the two Munros – the first being the aforementioned Bidean Nam Bian, the second named Stob Coire Sgreamhach. But these higher summits are hidden from Glen Coe by the northern ridges, the so-called Three Sisters, which extend like long fingers from the main massif. One of the most common routes up to the ridge that links the two Munros from Glen Coe is via the head of Coire Gabhail (the Hidden Glen or Lost Valley), which runs southwest between two of the three sisters, Beinn Fhada and Gearr Aonach. Coire Gabhail is a classic hanging valley, hidden high above the glen, that was formerly used by members of Clan Macdonald to hide livestock – either their own herds, or cattle raided from rival clans. It’s a great place to explore, not just for its evocative Highland history, but also for its dramatic scenery. Be prepared to negotiate rocky paths, with scree sections and the odd little scramble. Descents can be similarly steep and loose.
From the south, Glencoe is reached via the A82, a fabulous road across Rannoch Moor that is often cited as one of the best drives in Scotland. If arriving by train, the nearest station is in Fort William (17 miles from Glencoe). Citylink bus services run from Fort William to Glencoe.
Clachaig Inn
This historic coaching inn has become legendary among walkers and climbers, and its three bars are usually great places to meet like-minded folk. The inn has 23 B&B rooms and serves a hearty food menu. Clachaig Inn
Glencoe Youth Hostel
A classic Alpine-style hostel with dorm rooms, private rooms and deluxe glamping pods, run by the SYHA. hostellingscotland.org.uk
Red Squirrel Campsite
A casual farm campsite spread across 20 acres of meadow and woodland. You can even pitch your tent on an isolated island. Red Squirrel Campsite
Clachaig Inn
It would be remiss not to mention the Clachaig again. This charming Scottish pub is the perfect place to refuel after a day on the hills.
The Glencoe Gathering
This is a posh chippie, all day café and bistro, serving up tasty meals and warming drams of whisky.
