Biking and Bites: Bikepacking in Catalonia

17th October 2024 | Words by Humbert Campins | Photography by Lisa Paarvio | Recipes by Kieran Creevy

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Known for its rich heritage and vibrant culture, the historic city of Girona is the starting point for our adventure. We’re all experienced gravel bike riders, and have packed our bikes with the perfect combination of gear we need for the trip ahead, including local ingredients and food to keep us going throughout.

After leaving Girona, we join an old railway line – known as the Carrilet – which connects the city with neighbouring Olot. Passing through the once volcanic region of La Garrotxa, the railway line runs over 50km in length, and is now one of the most popular cycling routes in this region of Spain. As the gravel bikes eat up the kilometres, the landscape changes from fertile plains of the Gironès to the mountainous foothills of the Selva region. Despite this changing landscape, the road is smooth and ideal for the bikes.

In stark comparison to the hustle and bustle of Girona, the atmosphere along the route is almost serene, as we pass through small villages, crop fields and forests, one after another.

After several hours of pedalling through the heart of the region of La Selva, the Susqueda Reservoir comes into view, signalling the start of an ascent towards the charming medieval village of Rupit, nestled in the Collsacabra mountains. The path gets steeper and more technical, and at this point we’re glad to have bikes built for this terrain, as well as the impressive views around us.

Rupit rewards us with its beautiful stone houses, cobbled streets and an atmosphere that seems almost frozen in time. It’s the perfect place for a well-deserved break, and gives us time to rest, recharge and explore the old town, whilst sampling some of the local produce.

From Rupit, we continue past the Salt de Sallent waterfall, where water falls over 100 metres into the valley below. From here, the view is breath-taking, with a horizon dominated by mountains and seemingly endless lush green valleys. It feels like the perfect place to make camp! We welcome the rest, and pitch our tents with a perfect view over the clifftops.

As the sun sets, bathing the surrounding cliffs in golden and orange tones, we’re lulled to sleep by the sound of the waterfall in the distance.

Day 2: Alta Garrotxa

We start the second day of our adventure by experiencing the Salt de Sallent waterfall up close, before getting ready for another day of biking in the spectacular Catalan surroundings. We’re heading towards La Garrotxa, a region known for its wild beauty and rocky, volcanic landscape.

The forest paths become more mountainous, as we move further from civilisation into the remote and less-travelled area of Alta Garrotxa. Once again, we’re glad of the gravel bikes as the terrain becomes rockier and more technical still, with climbs and descents that challenge our skills. As we continue through the area, we’re rewarded again with panoramic views of the mountains that stretch as far as the eye can see.

Our second camping point is located at the top of Alta Garrotxa. Here, we pitch our tents in a clearing surrounded by nature, one that we feel truly privileged to experience.

Day 3: Journey home

The third day marks the return to Girona, but not before enjoying the last stages in the Alta Garrotxa. The journey is far gentler than on day one, and our route takes us along quiet wooded paths and past ancient oak tree groves. Then, as we approach the Carrilet, the terrain softens and the speed increases.

As we approach the city, we reminisce about the adventure of the previous days, as the landscape changes back to the green fields of the Girona plain. The return to civilisation gives us an appreciation for the nature and beauty of rural Catalonia, where we’ve experienced some of the most impressive and diverse landscapes one is likely to find in the region. Our bodies are certainly tired, but we feel thoroughly enriched by the experience. Girona welcomes us home with its warm and friendly atmosphere, and once again, we’re glad for the rest…until the next adventure that is!

Bikepackers’ seafood paella

Ingredients:

• 1 cup of paella rice
• 1 vegetable stock cube
• 1 garlic clove
• 1 can mini octopus
• 1 can mussels
• 1 can red peppers in olive oil
• 1 can tomato paste
• salt
• pepper

Method:

1. Drain the mussels, octopus and peppers. Keep a small amount of the oil from the peppers to fry the garlic. Put all aside. 
2. Dice the garlic clove into small pieces. Add a little bit of the oil from the peppers to the pot. Add the garlic and fry until softened. 
3. Heat water in a pot over the stove until it boils. Add the rice, vegetable stock and tomato paste to the boiling water and cook on medium heat until the rice is cooked. Stir continually to ensure that the rice doesn’t stick to the pot and burn. 
4. Cut the canned pepper into pieces. Add the octopus, mussels and sliced peppers to the rice. Mix evenly and add salt and pepper as preferred. Serve in bowls or on plates. Bon appetit!

Camp avocado chocolate mousse

Ingredients:

• 1 ripe avocado
• 300ml orange juice
• two bars of dark chocolate

Method:

1. Pour the orange juice into a pot over the camping stove. Boil gently on a low heat. 
2. Break the chocolate into pieces and add them, little by little, to the simmering orange juice. Stir continually until completely melted. 
3. In the meantime, spoon out the avocado and mash it with a fork until smooth. 
4. When the chocolate is completely melted, turn off the heat, set the pot aside and add the mashed avocado. Mix until a smooth consistency is reached. Serve in cups.