Field Guide: Lewis and Harris, Scotland
February 04, 2025Commonly considered two separate isles, Lewis and Harris come from the same landmass: Lewis comprises the northern two-thirds and Harris the southern third. A narrow strip of land connects the two, joining what mountains and myth have largely separated reputationally for centuries – thanks to over 800 years of the MacLeod clan rule, as well as the dramatic peaks that lie to the south of Lewis.
Today, the two regions operate as distinct counties. More than half (52%) of the population still speak Scottish Gaelic – compared to 2.5% nationally – making it a fortress of Gaelic culture preservation, which you can learn about at the isle’s countless heritage sites. Plus, first-class outdoor adventures await wherever you venture, from wild mountain hikes to unbeatable sea swims. No wonder this isle was named one of National Geographic’s ‘Best of the World’ travel destinations in 2025.
When to go
For the best weather, visit in the spring and summer months, particularly between April and October. This also overlaps with the opening of most attractions, cafés and restaurants, many of which are seasonal. Plus, these seasons deliver some of the best opportunities for wildlife watching – an absolute must in the Outer Hebrides, a standout location for spotting marine life such as whales, dolphins and more.
Don’t miss
Unmissable highlights on Lewis and Harris are generally focused on wildlife watching, stargazing and walking – for good reason. Pristine landscapes, extraordinarily low light pollution and a wealth of scarce habitats (both shore and sea) combine to make this island a haven for nature lovers.
The Hebridean Way
Soak up some of the best scenery in the Outer Hebrides along the Hebridean Way. By foot or bike? That’s up to you.
This 156-mile walking route traverses through ten islands between Vatersay and the Butt of Lewis, the most northern point on the Isle of Lewis, via miles of rugged country tracks, as well as six causeways and two ferry crossings. From the south of the isle, begin at Seilebost and wind your way through lochan-filled landscapes as you walk the old Coffin Road towards Tarbert. Then start the ascension into the mountains and enjoy endless mountain views before passing through Scaladal – home of an outdoor activity centre – and the old crofting township of Balallan. Eventually, you’ll reach the isle’s capital, Stornoway, the largest town in the Outer Hebrides. Along the way, you’ll see stone circles, sea eagles, stunning scenery and more. Choose to take on one section or walk the route in its entirety.
Cyclists follow approximately the same route, instead pedalling across 184 miles of quiet road. Both routes are ideal for those seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle of daily life. While not overly strenuous in elevation, few connecting townships make this a truly remote escapade.
Dark Sky Watching
Thanks to little light pollution, the remoteness of Lewis and Harris makes the isle one of the best places in Scotland for dark skywatching. On a clear night, the Stornoway Astronomical Society recommends heading to Tolsta, a remote village in northeast Lewis, for some of the best stargazing conditions. Other popular stargazing sites include the Butt of Lewis, Dalbeg beach and the standing stones at Calanais.
Each year, the community of Harris and Lewis celebrate the stars during its annual Hebridean Dark Skies Festival, a multi-day community extravaganza featuring astronomy shows, workshops, performances from local musicians, storytelling and more.
Observe an exceptionally stellar performance between October and March: the Northern Lights. Look up between 22:00 and 02:00 to maximise your chances of spotting this ethereal phenomenon.
St Kilda
Okay, so this one involves a small detour away from the island. But when the Isle of Lewis and Harris is so ideally located for visiting a world heritage site with dual status – being both culturally and naturally significant – it would be rude not to, right?
St Kilda is a remote archipelago in the North Atlantic comprising the isles of Hirta, Dun, Soay and Boreray. Rocky landscapes and distinct otherworldly sea stacks, including Europe’s highest sea cliff, perfectly denote its extreme location, which humans have overcome since settling here between 4,000 and 5,000 years ago. Remarkably, people continued to live here until the 1930s.
From sheep to field mice, it’s a true wildlife haven. The continent’s largest seabird colony, which includes over 250,000 breeding pairs, thrive here. Among these include Arctic skuas, guillemots, great skuas, Manx shearwaters, razorbills and shags. Look to the crystal-clear waters and you might also spot basking sharks and whales. Such marine diversity has secured its reputation as one of Europe’s best diving locations.
Visitors can explore the main islands, including the iconic stone houses, on a day trip or pack a tent in preparation for the UK’s remotest campsite on Hirta. Just be sure to book well in advance as spaces on these special explorations fill up fast.
Lewis and Harris is also well-positioned for exploring other smaller islands, including the Flannans, the Monach Islands, Mingulay and the Shiants.
Adventures on the doorstep
The island’s relatively small size makes excursions from your doorstep (or from your tent, depending on your chosen accommodation) easy, whether you prefer to explore on foot, on two wheels or even via paddleboard and kayak.
Walking & hiking
The region’s varied landscape has sculpted an excellent range of walking and hiking routes, from sandy trails to mountain ascents. While you’ll find no Munros here (Scottish mountains with a height of 3,000ft/914m+), plenty of challenging paths await. Take An Cliseam (the Clisham), a short yet rapid climb up the region’s highest peak offering standout views to every corner of the Isle.
Tour the craggy coastline with a full day’s worth of walking. The West Side Coastal Path is a fully waymarked route spanning ten miles. Or take your pick from one of the infinite stretches of white sandy beaches bordering the land.
A visit to the infamous Luskentyre Sands, which was voted the finest beach in the UK, will take your breath away: it’s one of the largest stretches of beach on the isle, giving you plenty of time (2.75 miles-worth if you follow this walkhighlands route) to gawk at the turquoise waves contrasting the shoreline. Other first-rate beach walk locations include Uig sands, Scarista, Huisinis and Seiliebost beach.
Not sure where to begin? Download free walking leaflets and guides from the Visit Outer Hebrides website.
Watersports
For sea and ocean watersports, the Outer Hebrides has some of the best spots in the world. That’s thanks to dramatic oceanscapes, accessible locations and varied coastlines. Whether paddle boarding, surfing or swimming, dive into numerous activities while on Lewis and Harris, with multiple outdoor companies on hand to help with rentals, tours, lessons and more.
Many flock to the island for its sea kayaking, with picturesque routes – particularly Luskentyre to Taransay – ready to leave you in awe. Sea kayaking also blends perfectly with other passions: photographers enjoy unique perspectives and wildlife watchers can ogle at the region’s clear waters to spot some of the UK’s most elusive wildlife.
Mountain biking
For the thrill-seekers: enjoy some of the most challenging – yet rewarding – mountain biking trails in the Outer Hebrides. From cross-country tracks to testing mountain climbs, expect some hard graft in remote wilderness – perfect as a group day out after stacking up moments of solitude.
Cycle the full length of the isle to traverse the North Harris hills, an array of complex ridges and glens dotted with native trees and abundant wildlife. Or for something shorter, tackle a section of the Harris hills via the Sròn Ulladale stalkers' path, a challenging cliff-edge climb that makes for an outstanding out-and-back adventure (around 10 miles). Gear up for the Golden Road loop via the Coffin Road (21 miles) or start at Tarbert for a circular route passing by Loch Sgeireagan Mor and Loch na Ciste (24 miles).
Cultural journeys
A walk through history remains possible on Lewis and Harris, thanks to the region’s number of well-preserved heritage sites. Among these include:
Gearrannan Blackhouse Village
Step back in time at the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village near Carloway, a coastal crofting village known for its distinct thatched-roof housing and the hardy communities raised within its walls. Observe the traditional activities of previous generations, such as the weaving of Harris tweed, and tour the site’s museum. Visitors can also stay overnight in the unique accommodation, partake in fishing with the neighbouring Carloway Angling Club, and learn about local archaeology efforts.
Dun Carloway Broch
Constructed around 200 BC, Dun Carloway broch is one of the Outer Hebrides’s best-preserved brochs, a circular hollow-walled structure commonplace in the Iron Age.
This nine-metre-tall structure, 1.5 miles south of Carloway, has two concentric walls, a ground-level area and a stairwell leading to a gallery/upper floor. Once the home of the local tribe leader, this broch was designed for defence – and to impress. Dun Carloway’s hilltop position provides panoramic views towards the shore and sea, which visitors can explore in the summer months.
Lews Castle
Overlooking Stornoway Harbour, this elegant fortress was built in 1847 by Sir James Matheson following his purchase of the Isle of Lewis. Recent refurbishment efforts have ensured the castle’s excellent condition and a suite of excellent facilities open to the public. These include a museum, café and accommodation options.
Visitors can also explore the castle’s delightful grounds, with plenty of peaceful picnic spots and hidden viewing points, via a varied four-mile walk from Stornoway town centre.
Calanais standing stones
Often referred to as one of Scotland’s best-preserved Neolithic monuments, the Calanais standing stones sit south of Dun Carloway broch. Enveloped in myth, Calanais predates Stonehenge – with experts placing its construction around 5,000 years ago – and stands out from other standing stone formations: 13 stones circle one large standing stone in the centre.
Thousands of tourists visit the stones annually, either independently touring the grounds or signing up for a guided tour to delve deeper into the site’s history and legend. One myth claims each stone is a petrified giant who refused to convert to Christianity, leading to the site’s nickname ‘fir bhrèige’ (false men). Non-believers will say the stones were erected for astronomical purposes, however.
NB: The site will remain closed until 2026 to allow for essential redevelopment.
Flora and fauna
As a hub of rich biodiversity, many of the region’s surrounding marine ecosystems benefit from legal protection as designated Marine Protected Areas (MPAs), of which there are 39. Some of these include:
- The Minch, a large body of water separating Lewis and Harris from the mainland, which hosts numerous coral species, sponge habitats and sea fans
- North-east Lewis, where you’ll find Risso’s dolphins and sandeels
- The Southern Trench, which features multiple whale species including the minke whale, a member of the Baleen whale family.
- Sea of the Hebrides, also home to minke whales, as well as basking sharks
Otters commonly play along the region’s coastlines and sea lochs, darting between the common and grey seals also spotted in these waters. Catch a wildlife-watching tour from one of the many boat services operating from Stornoway Harbour to learn more about the region’s sea wildlife.
On land, look out for the abundance of red deer, the largest deer species, with over 4,000 roaming the island. They forage for food among pockets of woodland, which contain a mix of native and non-native species, including rowan, aspen, holly, honeysuckle and willow.
Making the trek between Lewis and Harris? Don’t miss a visit to the North Harris Eagle Observatory, where you can catch a rare sight of the UK’s most elusive eagle species, including the golden eagle and white-tailed sea eagle. Both species thrive on the island’s rugged landscapes, alongside other birds of prey such as merlins – mostly found inland, in large peatland areas – and peregrines, which prefer coastline cliffs. But flapping above you might also be buzzards, gannets, grey-headed lapwings, greylag geese, long-tailed tits, puffins, stilt sandpipers, terns and treecreepers.
Where to stay, eat and drink
Food and drink are an essential part of Scottish Gaelic culture, and the wild landscapes of the island mean that locally sourced produce, from venison to seafood, are real highlights. The best places to sample such regional specialities are in the characterful cafés and restaurants of the island’s towns and villages, where you’re guaranteed a warm welcome.
Stornoway
This bustling, walkable town east of Lewis features a range of facilities including accommodation, cafés, restaurants, shops and cultural spots. Look up the calendar of An Lantair, the town’s arts hub and discover endless events to participate in – from live music to cultural festivals.
Coffee and cake lovers B-line to The Blue Lobster for excellent barista coffee, while freshly caught seafood can be enjoyed at The Boatshed Restaurant.
Tarbert
Tarbert lies on the banks of Loch Fyne and is known as the gateway to Kintyre. This quaint village boasts a picturesque natural harbour, mostly used for yachting and fishing. In July, the harbour transforms into the base of the annual Tarbert Seafood Festival, serving up some of Scotland’s finest, freshest seafood. Visitors can also wander around the ruins of a 14th-century castle, once home to Robert the Bruce, or hike to the neighbouring village of Skipness.
While small, travel through one of the village’s four ferry terminals or check into the numerous B&Bs available. It’s also home to the Isle of Harris distillery, which uses sustainably sourced sugar kelp from the local seabed to create its delicate, yet distinct gin (best garnished with a slice of grapefruit!).
Leverburgh
Harris’ second-largest town is located at the southern end of the isle. Leverburgh offers a minimarket, multiple B&Bs and The Cauldron in Lochside, a shop that doubles as a post office and local goods outlet. Its local ferry port shuttles passengers between Berneray and North Uist.
How to get there
Via car and bus
Take a ferry from the Scottish mainland, typically from Uig on the Isle of Skye if heading straight to Harris, or Ullapool to Stornoway if starting on Lewis.
Via train
On the Scottish mainland, a ScotRail train will take you as far as the Kyle of Lochalsh or Mallaig. From here, take a bus or taxi to your closest ferry port.
Via plane
Inverness is the closest airport. From here, collect a car for hire or take the train from the airport to begin your westbound journey to the Outer Hebrides.
Travelling within Lewis and Harris
Given its remote nature, Harris and Lewis is best explored by car. But plenty of bus options from major towns, such as Stornoway and Tarbert, will journey you between tourist hotspots and some of the other smaller towns and villages.