Field Guide: Banff, Canada
October 14, 2024An unparalleled playground for outdoor pursuits, Banff is a resort town in the province of Alberta, Canada. The town also gives its name to an eponymous national park, which is also a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. This sprawling area of more than 2,500 square miles is home to soaring mountains, jewel-coloured lakes – and grizzly bears! Hailed as the adventure capital of Canada, you could spend months exploring its tracks and trails.
Famed for the towering peaks of the Rocky Mountains and its iconic lakes, visitors from around the globe come to challenge themselves or simply meander along miles of hiking trails. In the warmer months, the region transforms into a hiker’s paradise, with an extensive network of routes that cater to all skill levels, with plenty of opportunities to cool off in waterfalls, natural springs and partake in a little wildlife spotting.
As winter descends, the mountains become a haven for skiing and snowboarding, with three world-class ski resorts just a short drive from Banff town centre: Banff Sunshine, The Lake Louise Ski Resort and Mt Norquay, which offers black runs as well as lessons. The season lasts from mid-November until late May and it’s advisable to book accommodation early, as the aprés-ski is very active in these mountains! Beyond the slopes, Banff's rugged terrain invites thrill-seekers to try ice climbing, snowshoeing, and even dog sledding, while the nearby rivers and lakes offer opportunities for kayaking, canoeing, and fishing.
Meanwhile, the charming town of Banff itself has everything you need for a cultural fix – including galleries and social events throughout the year. Conveniently located about 120 kilometres from Calgary, Banff is accessible year-round.
How to get there
If you’re flying from the UK, the nearest airport is Calgary International Airport (YYC), located about 120 kilometres (75 miles) from the town of Banff. From the airport, catch a public shuttle bus which regularly serves the area – Banff Airporter, Greyhound or Express Air Coach are very reliable, while Roam Public Transit bus serves the Banff area itself.
Train options like the Rocky Mountaineer and Via Rail can take you near Banff, but additional transfers to reach the town are usually necessary; car/motorbike hire or private hire are other options that allow you to see more of the scenery, but bear in mind tricky road conditions and seasonal closures.
When to go
To make the most of your trip, the months May through September are when the weather is at its warmest, the snow has melted from the trails and lakes glitter under the sunshine.
In spring (April to May), the hiking season starts kicking back into life. This time of year is ideal for seeing waterfalls and wildlife, as animals emerge from hibernation. Late May offers great conditions for exploring before the summer crowds arrive.
Summer (June to August) brings temperatures ranging from 20°C to 30°C and the park becomes a hotspot for hiking, mountain biking and exploring natural attractions like Lake Louise and Moraine Lake. Wildlife spotting is also excellent during the warmer months.
Autumn (September to October) is renowned for fall foliage. Banff offers stunning forest scenery, and the golden larch trees are a particular highlight. Fall is thus a great time for hiking and photography, with fewer crowds. Early September is particularly beautiful, but as the month progresses, you'll see increasing chances of snow. The daytimes are noticeably cooler, ranging from 10°C to 20°C (50°F to 68°F) and it can be chilly at night. Also look out for the world famous Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival, which usually takes place in October.
Winter (November to March) is the longest season in this northern climate, with daytime temperatures often below freezing (-5°C to -15°C or 23°F to 5°F) so you will need to bring proper winter gear. Most visitors flock for the snow and socialise after skiing and snowboarding at the various resorts, which include Sunshine Village and Lake Louise. Snowshoeing, ice skating, and visiting the hot springs are also popular. December to February is the busiest time for winter sports, so consider booking accommodation in advance.
Don't miss
Banff National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is renowned for its stunning mountain landscapes, glacial lakes, and diverse wildlife. For spectacular panoramic views of the Rockies, take a ride up to the summit of Sulphur Mountain on the Banff Gondola – an eight minute journey that transports you to a 700 metre elevation!
You can’t miss the eye-popping Lake Louise, which is famous for its turquoise waters that are overlooked by majestic mountains; it's perfect for canoeing in the summer or ice skating in the winter. Known as Canada’s ‘diamond in the wilderness’, it offers plenty of trails and you can even jump on the ski lifts from here to explore the mountain tops.
With impressively unpolluted night skies thanks to local laws in place to curb light pollution, Banff can rival Iceland and Greenland as a premier destination to witness the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights. Potentially visible all year round, you will have a higher probability of viewing the aurora in the winter months when the skies are darker for longer. Even if you don’t spot them on your trip, you’ll be treated to a sky strewn with a spectacular array of stars.
Possibly even more stunning than Lake Louise, Moraine Lake is a glacial lake nestled into the Valley of the Ten Peaks. Encased by ten snow-capped mountains, this otherworldly azure lake gets its spectacular colour from the fine rock dust deposited in the water by nearby glaciers. It is only accessible by a road, which is open June–September.
Located a short walk from the town of Banff, Bow Falls is a short, wide waterfall formed by the winding Bow River. The falls are accessible year-round and are equally arresting when they’re frothy in the summer as when they’re frozen in winter. Fun fact: Bow Falls was used as a filming location for the Marilyn Monroe movie River of No Return. This picturesque drive connects Banff and Lake Louise, offering chance encounters with wildlife and stunning views, especially at stops like Johnston Canyon and Castle Junction.
Climb aboard the delightful glass-roofed Rocky Mountaineer train and be treated to some old-fashioned thrills as it puffs its way through the mountains – taking in the landscape from Jasper to Vancouver, including the Yellowhead Pass. One of the highlights is the view of snow-covered Mount Robson, which is the highest peak in the Rockies, plus stops at Columbia Icefield and Athabasca Falls.
One of the most photogenic places to visit is Peyto Lake, which is known for its heart-shaped appearance; hike to the viewpoint for the best vista and remember to take swimwear so you can enjoy a dip in the Banff Upper Hot Springs, which boasts relaxing and rejuvenating warm mineral waters with impressive mountain views.
Hiking and backpacking
Banff has an extensive network of hiking trails ranging from easy walks to challenging backcountry routes. The popular Plain of Six Glaciers provides stunning views of glaciers and Lake Louise; whereas the Iceline Trail is a breathtaking loop that combines mountain views with glacier and waterfalls; and Brewster’s Creek trail is a more strenuous hike that is popular with backpackers, cross-country skiers, and hikers. The trail is open year-round and boasts out of this world panoramas.
The Plain of Six Glaciers Tea House trail is a popular choice as you can stop for refreshments en route – just note that the actual Six Glaciers Tea House accepts cash only. Some say the hike is tiring and has steep parts; others say the switchbacks up to Big Beehive are brutal, but you will be rewarded with views of Lake Agnes, Mirror Lake, Lake Louise, and the surrounding peaks and glaciers.
The Sentinel Pass Trail begins just beyond the Moraine Lake Lodge and is a 7 mile round-trip trail with an elevation gain of 2,383 ft. The trail is considered moderate-strenuous, with some sections that are steep and narrow. The route takes in Larch Valley and Paradise Valley and culminates with a breathtaking 360 degree view of the Rocky Mountains at the top.
Johnston Canyon is a must see; follow an elevated walkway through the canyon and witness the magnificent cascade carve the ancient limestone cliffs. If you’re feeling more adventurous, continue on to the Upper Falls where further on the same path are the infamous Ink Pots; a colourful array of mineral springs which lie 10.8km from the trailhead. This attraction gets busy during the summer, so arrive before 8am to ensure a parking spot or take the public shuttle bus.
Backcountry camping
Backcountry camping in Banff is a thrilling way to immerse yourself in nature, allowing for proximity to pristine wilderness. If you’re willing to ‘rough it’ a bit but still want some privacy, you can also car-camp. Rent a vehicle big enough to sleep in (such as a small van or SUV), buy a sleeping bag, mattress and basic cooking stuff at Wal-Mart or Canadian Tire or go to a second-hand store (there is a large assortment in Calgary). At the end of your trip, donate the kit back to a thrift store or give it to a homeless shelter. This is ideal for a winter adventure – preferably if you have experience. Popular spots are Skoki Campground which is accessible from Lake Louise and surrounded by stunning landscapes; the Wenkchemna Pass, a trail that leads to a scenic area with campsites; or there are a number of camps along the Iceline Trail. The backcountry provides excellent opportunities for stargazing and photography, thanks to low light pollution.
Road Trips
If you need a break from trekking, take your wheels on the Conde Nast Traveller-accredited Icefields Parkway. Taking in Alberta’s Highway 93, the views along the 232 km stretch of highway take in soaring mountain peaks, 100 ancient glaciers, cascading waterfalls, dramatic rock spires, and emerald lakes set in sweeping valleys, with plenty of viewpoints, accommodation and restaurants on the way.
Less crowded, but equally lush, the Yoho National Park boasts fantastic lakes, hiking trails, and roaring waterfalls; at a lower gradient than its neighbouring Banff, it is more precipitous so the forests here have a lush, magical feel. It is also home to the stunning Emerald Lake, which is the largest in the park and sparkles with a translucent, otherworldly shade. Close by is the Natural Bridge – the turn-off is easy to miss, so keep an eye out for it on your left; you will be looking out for a bridge made out of rock that was cut by the Kicking Horse River. Or if you’re short of time, Takakkaw Falls is one of the best things to visit. ‘Tak Falls’, as locals know it, is spectacular, and at a height of 373 metres is one of the tallest single-drop waterfalls in Canada. Its name comes from the Cree word meaning ‘wonderful’. The best time to see it is in mid-June, when the heavy snow begins to melt. Keep in mind that to get there easily, you’ll need to drive the Yoho Valley Road, which is closed from October to June.
Skiing, snowboarding and ice climbing
Famed for the traditional winter après-ski, the cool kids flock to the resorts of Sunshine Village and Mount Norquay; even if you’re not a skier, you could try your hand at ice climbing, which involves traversing frozen waterfalls under the guidance of an experienced instructor.
Mountain biking
A playground for bike enthusiasts when the snow has melted, the piste transforms into 90km of mountain bike trails, featuring everything from light gravel paths to technical single track for all levels of riders. From the park’s smallest official mountain – Tunnel Mountain, to the difficult Prairie View Pass there are countless bike hire shops and knowledgeable locals who are happy to help you plan your two-wheeled adventure.
Rock climbing and mountaineering
There are crags, cliff and faces suitable for both beginners to the experienced within the park. Book a guide and you can enjoy an exhilarating experience at Yamnuska or the cliffs near Lake Louise. For more experienced technical climbers, possibilities include ascents on peaks like Mount Assiniboine. Alternatively, you can explore Banff’s caves, gorges and canyons by going caving or canyoning – the choice is yours.
Water sports
Another way to get your kicks is by joining a whitewater rafting excursion, which caters for family-friendly floats to thrilling rapids; or if you’d prefer something less strenuous, hire a kayak and enjoy the scenery on the expansive lakes.
Wildlife
Consisting of diverse ecosystems, ranging from forests to alpine tundra there is plenty of nature to admire, along with animals in their natural habitat which will depend on the time of year you visit. Grizzly bears are native to the region and mainly found in forested and mountainous areas, as are black bears – which are less daring than grizzlies and can be spotted in lower elevations. They start to hibernate in the late autumn and reappear around the valley floor in the spring. Once the snow melts in the summer months, you’ll see them higher in the peaks before they return to the valley again for berries in late summer.
Wolves primarily hunt in packs and can be found in the remote areas of the park, whilst elk hang out in valleys and open areas. Elk rutting (breeding) season is from late August until mid-October, and their calves are born in mid-May to early July. While they are beautiful to admire from afar, elk are more aggressive during these months and it’s important to keep your distance. Moose prefer the wetlands and river edges, and you will spot Bighorn Sheep (look for their impressive curved horns) if you venture into rocky terrain.
If twitching is your thing, take your binoculars and try to spy the 260+ species of birds that have been recorded, including bald eagles, which can often be seen near water bodies. Peregrine falcons nest on cliff faces and are superb flyers, while mountain chickadees are commonly seen in forested areas.
The region has a few reptiles, including the western rattlesnake. Amphibians such as the boreal toad can also be found, primarily in damp areas; and streams and lakes support fish species like cutthroat and rainbow trout.
Where to stay
Firstly, decide what's most important for lodging. If you're willing to drive a little further each day, you can stay in an Airbnb in Canmore instead of a hotel in Banff. You might also want to consider some time in Jasper. In the Banff National Park itself, there are a variety of camping options, from established campgrounds to hostels for those looking for budget-friendly accommodation.
Our best advice is to book early, as accommodation gets snapped up ridiculously quickly. Make sure it's fully refundable, ideally with no initial deposit. Availability disappears overnight, so it’s better to lock in things, even overlapping things if you aren't sure of your plans yet.
Many of the campgrounds have shower facilities. It’s worth bringing a cooler and basic cooking equipment, which will also save you money as you can prepare meals. But be sure to practise wildlife safety by using bear-proof containers for all food. You will need to make a reservation and obtain a permit. Reservations can be made online, and it's recommended to book well in advance, especially in the peak summer months. You can’t just camp anywhere – there are several designated backcountry campgrounds, accessible via hiking or biking trails.
The Tunnel Mountain Campground is close to the town of Banff, with easy access to hiking trails and the town’s amenities. With both powered and unpowered sites, there are also showers, flushing toilets and a general store; you may also spot visiting elk which adds to the experience.
Two Jack Lakeside Campground has a tranquil setting near Lake Minnewanka, about a 15-minute drive from Banff. It is great for canoeing and relaxing by the water.
Offering beautiful mountain views, Silverhorn Creek is an RV-friendly campground offering a rustic camping experience along the Icefields Parkway, just minutes from Waterfowl Lakes, Bow Lake, and the Peyto Lake viewpoint. But it’s worth noting there is no cell phone coverage at any campgrounds on the Icefields Parkway.
Where to eat and drink
There are lots of restaurants to choose from – here are some of our favourites:
Bear Street Tavern has cosy booths and a great vibe; pizzas are the staple plus there is an impressive craft beer list!
Wild Flour Bakery offers delicious baked goods and pastries. Sit in the shady garden and enjoy breakfast or lunch or grab ‘n’ go.
Banff Ave Brewing Co. is a restaurant/brewery that does everything in house, so you can soak your beer up with casual eats like burgers and tacos.
St James Gate is a classic pub offers a hearty selection of pub grub, along with live music.
High Rollers Pizza is a unique venue that combines craft beer, gourmet pizzas and bowling.
El Patio Mexican is the best rooftop bar in town. Serving Mexican bites, Tico cocktails and nightly, local DJs.
Sara Darling is a travel, fashion and lifestyle journalist who has visited more than fifty countries on assignment. Her adventures have included everything from surfing in Bali and driving an F1 race-car in the Algarve to abseiling down a waterfall in Costa Rica and paragliding in Turkey. Her writing has featured in The Times, The Independent, Evening Standard, Rough Guides and Culture Trip, along with a gamut of luxury online publications..