Field Guide: West Highlands, Scotland
June 30, 2025The diverse region of the West Highlands contains an immense variation of Scottish landscapes, from sharp mountain ridges to winding sea lochs. With the bustling mountain town of Fort William at its heart and the world-renowned beauty of Glencoe just down the road, it is one of the most visited areas of the Highlands – and yet the region also includes Knoydart, which is described as Scotland’s last wilderness. Whether you enjoy hiking, climbing, fishing, or general sightseeing, this breathtaking region has something for everyone.
The West Highlands is not a particularly well-defined region, but for the sake of this field guide it runs from the Bridge of Orchy in the south to Glen Affric in the north. This excludes the peninsulas of Ardnamurchan and Morvern, as well as the Southwest Highlands and Northwest Highlands, which would form lengthy field guides in their own right (if you’re heading northwest, check out our Field Guide to Assynt).
Key regions within the West Highlands area include:
- Ben Nevis and Glencoe
- Knoydart
- Glen Affric and Kintail
Many poets, from Robert Burns to William Wordsworth to Lord Byron, have been inspired by the West Highlands, for good reason. Waterfalls thunder down dark, foreboding cliffs and lochs shimmer like liquid moonlight between towering peaks. Renowned for its unpredictable weather, the West Highlands is a region that is arguably most authentic when the heavy storm clouds roll in. Whether climbing up a winter gully, kayaking along a sea loch or relaxing by a crackling bothy fire, the West Highlands is full of activities to replenish the soul in close proximity to nature. Home to Britain's last wilderness, Britain's highest peak, Scotland's most popular long-distance hiking trail, and the most famous glen in Scotland, this impressive region is never short of adventures.
What to do
The West Highlands offer some of Scotland's most spectacular mountain adventures, from conquering Ben Nevis, Britain's highest peak, to tackling the exposed ridges of Aonach Eagach and the Ring of Steall. Multi-day hikers can explore the popular West Highland Way or the newer Affric Kintail Way, while those seeking wilderness can venture into the remote Knoydart peninsula. Beyond the peaks, discover dramatic glens like Glencoe and Glen Nevis, ancient castles including iconic Eilean Donan, pristine beaches around Arisaig, and cosy Highland pubs. Whether you're scrambling rocky ridges or enjoying whisky tastings in Fort William, the West Highlands deliver unforgettable Scottish experiences.
Ben Nevis
Britain's highest mountain rests in the heart of the West Highlands, where it overshadows the town of Fort William. Unsurprisingly, this impressive accolade also brings with it a large number of visitors. Although the Mountain Track from Glen Nevis provides the most straightforward ascent, it becomes incredibly busy in summer. For a more exciting route up the mountain, the Càrn Mòr Dearg Arête (colloquially known as the CMD Arête) provides an exposed grade 1 scramble to the top. On the broad summit plateau, you will find an emergency shelter, the ruins of a meteorological observatory which was functional from 1883 to 1904, and expansive views across the highlands to the east and towards the sea to the west.
Ring of Steall
This circular route is a classic that every seasoned hillwalker should have in their logbook. It traverses four Munros (Scottish mountains over 3,000ft) on the southern side of Glen Nevis. In addition to stunning scenery, the route has sections of scrambling including one named 'the Devil's Ridge', providing a varied and rewarding day out.
Affric Kintail Way
Despite only being opened a decade ago, in 2015, the Affric Kintail Way has gained international popularity as a multi-day hiking route. In the shelter of imposing Munros, the trail passes lochs, canyons, waterfalls and ancient Caledonian pine woods. Stretching 71 kilometres from Drumnadrochit on the shores of Loch Ness to Morvich near the Kyle of Lochalsh, the route typically takes four days and three nights, making it easier to accomplish in a short time – and with a limited use of annual leave – compared to other long-distance trails such as the West Highland Way. The path is also fully signposted, providing a more accessible route compared to other Scottish long-distance trails such as the Cape Wrath Trail, which is known for its more challenging navigation.
Aonach Eagach
The jagged spine of Aonach Eagach, which lines the northern side of Glencoe, is one of Scotland's most popular ridges. It is almost 10 kilometres long, and includes two Munro summits. Classed as a Grade 2/3 scramble, the ridge is extremely drawn out, exposed, and without escape routes on the main stretch, so it is certainly not for the faint-hearted. Prior scrambling and ridge-walking experience is highly recommended before tackling this serious but rewarding route.
Other day hikes
Unsurprisingly, this vast, mountainous area has an immeasurable number of day hike variations. Other popular hikes in the area include:
- Five Sisters of Kintail, a spectacular ridge walk linking together three Munros in the Kintail area.
- Bidean nam Bian, the highest point in Argyll, Bidean nam Bian (which means 'peak of the mountains' in Gaelic) is a complex mountain with many ridges, crags and subsidiary summits. One of these – Stob Coire Sgreamhach – is classed as a separate Munro. There are many routes into the Bidean nam Bian massif, with popular routes including the wooded high-level glen of the Lost Valley, and the stepped, crystal-clear waterfalls of Coire nan Lochan. A more esoteric and mentally engaging route is the Zig Zags, a fine scramble up the central face of the Three Sisters of Glencoe, topping out onto the broad ridge of Gearr Aonach.
- Grey Corries, a long, circular ridge walk crossing three to four (depending on route) Munros on the eastern side of the Nevis range, providing spectacular views over the western and central highlands. Variations can include a scramble up the 200-metre quartzite slab known as the 'Giant's Staircase'.
- Ben Cruachan Horseshoe, also a circular walk (there are plenty of these in the West Highlands!), this route links together the Munro summits of Ben Cruachan and Stob Daimh, with optional additional summits, while traversing the ridges above Cruachan Reservoir.
Other long-distance walks
- The West Highland Way was Scotland's first long-distance walking route, and continues to be its most popular. The 154-kilometre route runs from Milngavie (just north of Glasgow) to Fort William in the heart of the Highlands, passing winding rivers, moody glens and striking mountains along the way. In addition to the scenery, the route has a fascinating historical component, as it follows old military roads, coaching roads and drovers' roads along the way.
- The Cape Wrath Trail is considered to be one of the most challenging long-distance walks in the UK. It runs from Fort William to Cape Wrath, the most northwesterly point of mainland Britain. As an unmarked trail, navigation can be extremely challenging, and there are different variations of the route that can be walked. The varied terrain includes expansive bogs and serious river crossings, while its remoteness requires complete self-sufficiency. However, those that brave the challenge are rewarded with the secluded glens and pristine white-sand beaches of the Northwest Highlands.
- The Great Glen Way is another long-distance trail that begins/ends at Fort William. Whereas the Cape Wrath Trail travels north, and the West Highland Way runs to the south, the Great Glen Way leads east to Inverness. It follows the geological fault line of the Great Glen Fault, along the shores of Loch Lochy and Loch Ness for 120 kilometres. In addition to the walking option, the Great Glen Canoe Trail follows the same route on water.
Other adventures
Glencoe and Glen Etive
Known worldwide for its jaw-dropping scenery, Glencoe is arguably Scotland's most famous glen. Those looking for a shorter hike might enjoy scrambling through ancient woodland and past glittering waterfalls to reach the Lost Valley, a hidden glen tucked out of sight of the road. It is said that this is where members of Clan MacDonald would hide stolen cattle, and that the valley was also an important refuge during the Glencoe massacre of 1692. This dark piece of Glencoe involved the cold-blooded murder of inhabitants of the glen as part of continued efforts by the government to control highlanders. More information about the clan history of Glencoe, traditional life in the Glen, and (more recently) its significance in the Scottish climbing scene can be found at the Glencoe visitor centre, which includes reconstructed buildings.
Glen Etive, situated near Glencoe, has gained popularity by featuring in the James Bond film Skyfall. As the River Etive curves from Rannoch Moor to the sea, it flows through a series of canyons with waterfalls and deep pools, which means the glen is also a wild swimmer's paradise.
Glen Nevis
If there were an award for 'the lushest glen in Scotland', Glen Nevis would be a strong contestant. The characteristics of this glen are remarkably different from those of its neighbours, due to the fantastic work of the John Muir Trust in restoring native habitats such as woodland and peatland in and around the glen. In addition to being a starting point for some of Scotland's most popular walks, such as Ben Nevis and the Ring of Steall, visitors looking for an easier day out may wish to visit An Steall waterfall, which is a beautiful walk in its own right. Following the River Nevis upstream, a well-maintained path winds through birch woodland, dotted with primroses and violets in spring. The path leads to an open, higher-level valley with the white waters of An Steall race down the cliff at the far side of it. The route to the falls crosses the river through a choice of stepping stones, or a wire rope bridge.
Knoydart
Often described as 'Britain's last wilderness', the Knoydart peninsula is known for its rugged and remote character. Its primary settlement – the fishing village of Inverie, with just over 100 residents – can be accessed via three ways:
- A ferry ride from Mallaig
- A 25-kilometre walk from Kinloch Hourn
- A 42-kilometre hike from Glenfinnan
A popular route involves walking across to Inverie from Glenfinnan (with an overnight stay in a bothy), getting the ferry across to Mallaig, and returning to Glenfinnan on the train. Although the remote peaks and wild beaches of the peninsula are large incentives for visitors seeking solitude, its main attraction is the Old Forge; Britain's most remote mainland pub. Scotland is not known for its pilgrimage routes in the same the way that other countries are, such as Spain. But if there is one thing Brits are good at, it is drinking beer, and the pilgrimage to the pub has become a collector's piece. After a community buy-out in 2022, the popularity of the Old Forge has soared. It is now well known for its warm and welcoming atmosphere. There is no better place to experience true Scottish hospitality.
Rainy day activities
Fort William
For mountain lovers, Fort William is best visited during the Fort William Mountain Festival in February. During this long weekend, a series of talks, workshops, films and events are hosted in Fort William and the surrounding landscape. At other times of the year, the Three Wise Monkeys climbing centre is an excellent rainy day activity, as is the West Highland Museum and the Highland Cinema. On the outskirts of the town, Ben Nevis Distillery, which has been crafting whisky since 1825, provides tours and tastings.
Castles, forts and ruins
The area of the West Highlands has a rich and violent history, from clan skirmishes to the highland clearances. As a result, there are plenty of historical sites to visit. Scotland's most famous castle, Eilean Donan, is situated at Dornie along the A87 on the road to Skye. Dating back to the 13th century, the castle was a stronghold of the Clan Mackenzie for centuries before being destroyed by government ships in 1719 in response to the Jacobite rebellion. The existing castle is a remarkable 20th-century reconstruction. Sitting on a small island at the confluence of Loch Duich, Loch Long and Loch Alsh, Eilean Donan has become a powerful symbol of the romantic view of the highlands.
A quintessentially Scottish style of fortified building is a broch; a type of Atlantic roundhouse found throughout western Scotland, dating back to the Iron Age. Some of the best-preserved brochs in Scotland can be found in Gleann Beag, a forested glen leading off from Glenelg, where the last turntable ferry in Scotland connects to Skye. Here, Dun Telve and Dun Troddan ('dun' is another name for a fort) stand just 500 metres apart and up to 10 metres in height. These multi-storey buildings, with staircases built into the walls (that you can still climb up) provide an incredible insight into life in Iron Age Scotland. For comparatively recent history, those visiting Glenelg may also wish to explore the Bernera Barracks. Built by the British army to support their attempts to suppress the Jacobites and control the Skye crossing, these 18th-century ruins still stand tall.
Another impressive castle is Invergarry, situated just off the road from Fort William to Fort Augustus. The 17th century ruin stands five-storeys high on the shores of Loch Oich, and provides a fascinating addition to any West Highlands road trip.
Beaches
The coastline around Arisaig is celebrated for its beauty. White sand is lapped by turquoise waters, with views out towards Skye and the Small Isles. Nearby, the sandy estuary of the River Moidart is known as the 'Silver Sands of Morar'. The large number of beaches means that it is easy to get away from any crowds, and the clarity of the water is perfect for snorkelling.
Flora and Fauna
Some of the most incredible flora in the Highlands and islands – and arguably, in Britain –is found in the 'machair'. This Gaelic word is used to describe a specific type of habitat characterised by low-lying grassy plains beside the coast. These coastal meadows are rich in wildflowers such as red clover, bird's-foot-trefoil, sea thrift, harebells and a variety of orchids. Although most machair is found in the Hebrides, some good examples of the habitat can be found along the Arisaig coastline.
Another rare habitat found in the West Highlands is temperate rainforest, which forms in areas with a mild climate and high rainfall. There is little temperate rainforest left in the world, and Scotland's rainforest is internationally important, acting as a large carbon store and supporting and immense range of flora and fauna. The rainforest features deciduous trees, such as oak and hazel, with branches dripping with lichens, ferns and mosses. Some good examples can be found at Glenelg and Gleann Beag (where the brochs are), as well as on the Knoydart peninsula.
Ancient Caledonian pinewood can be found in Glen Affric – which has the third largest area of Caledonian pinewood in Scotland. These pinewoods are dominated by Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris), with species such as bilberry and heather in the undergrowth. Glen Affric is also home to a large, ancient elm tree known as the 'Last Ent of Affric', which was designated as Scotland's tree of the year in 2019.
The fauna of the West Highlands is equally as varied, with golden eagles and occasionally white-tailed sea eagles gracing the skies. Below, red squirrels and pine martens scurry in the trees, while otters and seals splash around in the sea. Remarkable wildlife can be found on even the highest summits. For example, a third of Scotland's breeding pairs of snow buntings – which usually breed in the Arctic – are found on Ben Nevis.
Where to stay
The West Highlands cater to every accommodation preference, from comfortable hotels and inns around Fort William to characterful options like Glencoe's Clachaig Inn and the remote Kingshouse Hotel. Wild camping enthusiasts can legally pitch throughout Scotland's unenclosed land, with spectacular spots in Glen Affric, the Knoydart peninsula, and Glencoe's valleys. Established campsites like Red Squirrel offer woodland pitches with campfires permitted, while isolated Long Beach campsite provides tidal loch views near Inverie's famous Old Forge pub. For the ultimate Highland experience, bothies – free mountain shelters – offer basic accommodation with unmatched wilderness tranquility and the chance to connect with fellow adventurers.
Hotels, inns and hostels
As a very populated area, numerous hotels, inns and hostels can be found in and around the Fort William area. In Glencoe, accommodation options include Glencoe Youth Hostel, the Clachaig Inn and the Kingshouse Hotel. More accommodation options can also be found in small towns such as Fort Augustus and Mallaig. Another popular hostel is the Glen Affric Youth Hostel, an eco-hostel that is particularly remote and part-way along the Affric Kintail Way.
Camping
Most of rural Scotland is bountiful in wild camping spots, and the West Highlands are no exception. Wild camping is legal in Scotland on unenclosed land, as long as you adhere to the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. Fantastic wild camping spots can be found along Glen Affric, on the Knoydart peninsula, and in the valleys running off Glencoe, including the Lost Valley.
For those that prefer camping with amenities, some spectacular campsites can be found in the region. In Glencoe, Red Squirrel Campsite is known for its lush scenery in woodland by the River Coe, allowing campfires and providing open pitches with a wild feel. Another campsite with a wild feel is the Long Beach campsite on Knoydart, situated on the tidal shores of Loch Nevis and within walking distance of the Old Forge in Inverie. There are also several campsites along the Arisaig coastline providing easy access to the white sand beaches.
Bothies
Bothies have become a well-known part of highland culture. These basic shelters are free for anyone to use and spend the night in, providing shelter in harsh, remote locations. Many people are not only attracted to the sense of wilderness and tranquility that comes with a bothy stay, but also to the sense of conviviality that comes with it. A large part of bothy culture involves welcoming other visitors, sharing what you have and treating the place with respect. There are numerous bothies in the West Highlands, all with their own quirks and characters. A map of bothies owned and maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association can be found on their website, alongside a description of the Bothy Code, which all visitors to these special places should follow.
How to get there
The West Highlands are surprisingly accessible, with excellent train connections including the scenic Glasgow to Fort William route and the famous Mallaig line featuring the Harry Potter film location at Glenfinnan viaduct. The luxurious Caledonian Sleeper provides overnight service from London, while budget-friendly buses connect from Edinburgh and Glasgow. Ferry services from Mallaig reach Skye, the Small Isles, and remote Knoydart peninsula, with smaller boats departing Arisaig for island hopping. While public transport serves main destinations well, driving offers maximum flexibility for exploring hidden glens and remote Highland locations that remain inaccessible by other means, making it the preferred option for serious outdoor enthusiasts.
Train and bus
The West Highlands are easier to access by train than other parts of the Scottish Highlands. The train ride from Fort William to Mallaig is known as one of the most beautiful train journeys in Britain, although the journey from Glasgow to Fort William is beautiful too. In addition to normal train services, the stretch from Fort William to Mallaig is served by the Jacobite Steam Train, which is seen travelling over the Glenfinnan viaduct in the Harry Potter films. Fort William is also served by the Caledonian Sleeper train, providing a direct overnight connection to London (and many other stations en route). An alternative to the train, which often has cheaper tickets, are the direct buses from Edinburgh and Glasgow.
Ferry
Several CalMac ferry services run from Mallaig to Hebridean islands, including Skye, the Small Isles (Rum, Eigg, Canna and Muck), and South Uist. A ferry also connects Mallaig to Inverie on Knoydart, run by Western Isles Cruises, as an alternative to the multi-day walk-in from the road. Arisaig Marine runs ferries from Arisaig to the Small Isles, which are much smaller boats than the CalMac ferries and only take foot passengers.
Car
Despite the West Highlands having better public transport connections than some other parts of Scotland, travelling by car still provides the most freedom. Many of the glens and more remote parts of the West Highlands can only be accessed by car.
When to go
The West Highlands are a beautiful place, but they can also be a harsh place. Winter brings long nights and plenty of rain, while still summer evenings can be disturbed by clouds of biting midges. Generally, spring and autumn provide the best balance of longer days with better chances of good weather, whilst remaining outside of the main 'midge season'. Summer is still an incredibly beautiful time in the highlands, but certain areas – especially the tourist hotspots of Glencoe and Fort William – will be considerably busier during this time, and camping without a midge net and insect repellent would be a foolish endeavour!
Despite the dark nights, winter in the West Highlands can be very magical. There is usually snow on the tops throughout winter – although this is becoming less reliable because of climate change – and occasionally, the northern lights make an appearance. However, what is an easy scramble in summer can become a serious mountaineering route in winter, so it is important to be prepared with the right skills and equipment if venturing out into the hills.
Where to eat and drink
As mentioned above, the Old Forge in Inverie (Knoydart) is not only the most remote pub on the British mainland, but also a brilliant pub in its own right. The community atmosphere is warm and welcoming; the seafront lawn is serene on a calm summer evening, while the array of games and instruments inside provide endless entertainment on a rainy day.
The Clachaig Inn in Glencoe is another unmissable pub, dating back to the 16th century in Scotland's most iconic glen. Originally a coaching inn, the Clachaig has become famous in more recent history for its role in British climbing culture, where it became a hub for climbers tackling routes in the surrounding mountains. Its traditional hikers and climbers bar – known as the Boots Bar – is a cosy place to tuck into a wee dram and some haggis, neeps and tatties after a big day out in the hills. The bar regularly hosts live music, with weekly folk sessions and bands travelling from across the world to play there.
There is no shortage of food and drink options in Fort William, which has a range of cafes, restaurants and bars. The Ben Nevis Inn, a converted barn in Achintee at the foot of Ben Nevis, provides hearty meals, live music, and bunkhouse accommodation that is ideal for walkers and mountaineers. The Crofter is another popular bar in the centre of Fort William, serving classic pub grub with a vibrant atmosphere. For many, Black Isle Bar is an essential stop on any highland road trip. An extension of Black Isle Brewery – Scotland's only organic brewery – the bar serves local beers and handmade wood-fired pizzas.
On the road to Skye in Glen Shiel, the Cluanie Inn is a popular evening stop, and the Landour Bakehouse across the road is a popular daytime stop, serving a delicious range of homemade cakes, pastries and sandwiches.