Field Guide: Cairngorms, Scotland
November 07, 2024Welcome to the Cairngorms National Park, a lush playground of sweeping valleys, grand rivers and mighty mountains. At 1,748 square miles, it’s the UK’s largest national park – almost twice the size of the Lake District – and home to some of the tallest peaks in the UK.
The region’s varied landscapes have laid the foundations for a multitude of recreational sports – from mountain biking to mountaineering. Plus, it’s one of the nation’s top locations for hitting the slopes on skis or snowboards.
After a day out in the hills, head to the region’s many towns and villages, where community spirit, unbeatable food and special events will greet you in buckets.
A visit here might also treat you to sightings of some of the nation’s most elusive wildlife. Over a quarter of the UK’s biodiversity lies within the region’s borders, many of which are considered endangered. This includes areas of Caledonian Pinewood, some of the UK’s most ancient forests and a critical habitat for countless species.
Walk with us as we guide you everything you need to know about making the most of your trip in the Cairngorms National Park.
When to go
Nothing quite beats Scotland in the summer – thanks to wonderfully stubborn daylight hours, lighting the way for long outdoor escapades. The Cairngorms National Park in the summer is no exception, boasting some of the UK’s most jaw-droppingly beautiful landscapes. But each season bears its own set of unique qualities, making this place a go-to destination year-round.
Spring offers up some of the best weather for getting outdoors. April is the driest month, on average, providing favourable conditions for many of the long-distance routes that wind their way through the National Park. Among these are the Lairig Ghru, a 19-mile historic path that cattle drovers relied upon until the late 19th-century, and the Speyside Way, an 84-mile route that follows a former railway line.
In Autumn, gawk at the palette of colours that paint the landscape vivid yellows, oranges and reds. This is truly a sight to behold, particularly backdropped against impressive waterfall locations such as Burn O’Vat and the Falls of Bruar. Then, as the longer nights draw in over winter, marvel as you study the stars above you.
A wee note on visiting the Cairngorms in the summer: while midge season is more forgiving here than west coast Scotland locations, a summer escapade is best planned for early on in the season to avoid these tiny pests – particularly for those looking to camp, bikepack or sleep without the comfort of four walls. Adventures in April and May usually mean less tourists, too: double win.
Don’t miss
Bunk in a bothy
Overnight in a bothy for a unique experience in the Scottish outdoors. These small buildings were originally built from the 18th century onwards to provide shelter for remote outdoor workers such as rangers and drovers. While some of these fell into disrepair, many were saved by various charitable organisations. Those remaining act as basic free-to-use refuges for adventurers, commonly equipped with a simple place to sleep and a hearty fire to cosy up to. Bring your own food, fuel, sleeping mat and bag.
See the UK’s only free-ranging reindeer herd
At the Cairngorm Reindeer Centre, near Aviemore, a thriving herd of reindeer freely roam the mountainside lands of Glenmore Forest Park. The centre sits adjacent to multiple hiking routes. So even if you don’t have time to visit the centre itself, look out for these magnificent creatures while on mountain adventures in the area.
These reindeer are the only free-ranging herd in the UK, and the welcomed result of a field experiment by Mikel Utsi, a reindeer herder from Lapland. In 1952, he introduced seven Swedish reindeer (two bulls, five cows) to the area. Fast-forward over seventy years, and the herd is now over 150-strong, demonstrating that this once native species – driven to extinction over 800 years ago from overhunting – can flourish in Caledonian forests.
Stargaze in a Dark Sky Park
Don’t forget to look up: the Cairngorms National Park is home to one of the five dark sky parks found in the UK. When the sun sets, vivid starry skies blanket the region. Expect to see star clusters, comets, shooting stars and more, particularly in remote areas such as the Glenlivet and Tomintoul, where multiple stargazing events – led by local experts – occur throughout the year.
Adventures on the doorstep
Walking, hiking and mountaineering
An abundance of walking, hiking and mountaineering routes can be found in the area. Whether you’re seeking a low-lying plod or a hearty mountain march, accessible adventures await all who come to the area.
Hike or climb four of the five highest mountains in the UK, including Ben MacDui, Britain’s second-highest peak. You’ll also find 55 out of Scotland’s 282 Munros here. These are Scottish mountains that tower over 914 metres (3,000ft), which get their namesake from 18th-century mountaineer and adventurer Sir Hugh Munro. To reach the summit of a Munro is to successfully ‘bag’ it, hence the local turn of phrase ‘Munro bagging’.
You can also find an abundance of scenic low-lying walks, winding through a range of landscapes: circumnavigate lochs, amble alongside pristine rivers and saunter through undulating forest tracks.
Snow sports
Scotland’s snow sports season spans December to April, giving you plenty of time to visit all three of Scotland’s five snow sports centres located in the Cairngorms National Park: Cairngorm Mountain, the Lecht and Glenshee.
- Cairngorm Mountain takes the crown for highest elevation and is perhaps Scotland’s most well-known ski centre. That’s thanks to a wide range of facilities to entertain all levels – from the region’s steepest slopes for veterans to magic carpet lifts for beginners. On a clear day, expect epic views as you descend or work your skills on the kickers and rails (usually added later in the season).
- The Lecht Ski Centre sits between Tomintoul and Strathdon. With nursery slopes and magic carpet lifts, it’s ideal for beginners and families, but a first-rate skiing and snowboarding park – featuring jumps and rails – makes it a great place for practising skills, too.
- Glenshee, located near Braemar, features the infamous Tiger, one of Scotland’s most challenging black runs. From gullies, bowls and jumps to man-made and natural slopes, this facility offers a vast mix of terrain to tackle all day long.
Cycling and mountain biking
The Cairngorms National Park has some of the best bike routes in Scotland. Breathtaking scenery provides the backdrop to a seemingly endless series of wide, open roads: a road cyclist's dream. For gradient-lovers, the Lecht road is an ideal blend of beauty and ascent (with coffee, cake and hot food awaiting you at the top at The Ptarmigan Restaurant). Or set your sights to Ballater and Braemar for picture-perfect moorland, royally approved since Queen Victoria’s first visit to her Scottish home, Balmoral Estate, in 1842.
Mountain bikers are also in good hands. Whether you’re into gravel riding, downward hill or cross country, find a range of first-rate tracks to hone your skills and play. Map your way through valleys and riverside routes, or take your pick from the region's numerous mountain biking centres – from Cairngorm Mountain Bike Park and Glenlivet Mountain Bike Trails in the north, to Laggan Wolftrax further south.
Water sports
From paddle boarding to canyoning, rafting and canoeing, sink your teeth into Scotland’s most stunning spots for water sports. Make a splash at more than sixty lochs and lochans (lakes and small lakes), as well as the multiple rivers and tributaries that snake through the region.
No kit? No problem. Hire gear from the numerous water sports centres dotted throughout the National Park, including those at Loch Morlich and Loch Insh.
And for the wild swimmers among you, dive into a range of standout swimming locations, including:
- Loch Morlich, Glenmore lies at the foot of Cairngorm Mountain. This large freshwater loch also features Britain's highest beach.
- Loch Uaine, Ryvoan is nestled in a sea of ancient Caledonian woodland. This magical green loch – dubbed ‘home of the fairies’ – would look right at home in the Alps. Thankfully, it’s located in the Cairngorms National Park, a short walk from Glenmore Visitor Centre, and on the doorstep of multiple mountain routes: perfect for a post-adventure dip in the summer months.
- The Pony Bridge, Glen Feshie is a magical spot, but don't worry, there are no trolls underneath this bridge; just dreamy river scenes nestled within a sweeping valley landscape. Glen Feshie’s wild location also makes it perfect for wildlife spotting; it’s a critical site for local ecological restoration.
- Loch an Eilein, Rothiemurchus is quintessential Scotland. Swim out to the ruins of a 13th-century castle and soak up the views of the surrounding forest and mountains.
Flora and fauna
Despite making up just 2% of the UK’s total landmass, the Cairngorms National Park is home to a whopping 25% of the nation’s endangered wildlife, including capercaillie, golden eagles, wildcats, ospreys, snow buntings and more. Some species, such as the pinewood mason bee, are wholly exclusive to the region – underlining the park’s importance in preserving UK wildlife.
Some of the UK’s most ancient forests grow in the region, including areas of Caledonian Pinewood. Experts consider these as some of the most critical ecosystems for conservation in Scotland. And it’s thanks to these ancient roots that the Cairngorms National Park has seeded numerous successful projects in rewilding (i.e. the large-scale restoration of land to its natural state). Among these include organisations such as Cairngorms Connect and SCOTLAND: The Big Picture, who aim to foster collaboration in this field to benefit both people and planet.
Learn more about local species at the numerous nature reserves in the region, including RSPB Loch Garten, Abernethy and RSPB Insh Marshes: ideal for down-day activities or nurturing a love for nature in little ones (and adults, too, of course). The Highland Wildlife Centre near Kingussie, home of the Royal Zoological Society of Scotland, also provides the opportunity for you to get up close to local species – and some not so local. Park inhabitants include the arctic fox, polar bears, vicunas and wolves.
Where to stay, eat and drink
Aviemore
Once a pivotal railway junction, Aviemore went off-piste in the late-twentieth century. The town developed in parallel with the snow sports industry, becoming the UK’s first ski resort in 1961. Today you’ll find an abundance of outdoor shops to stock up for your adventures, as well as a wide selection of pubs and restaurants to fuel up on after a day out in the hills. Head to the Old Bridge Inn, for example, the much-loved local pub that also offers live Scottish music bi-weekly. From hostels to hotels, B&Bs to self-catering lodges, you‘ll find a range of accommodation options to suit your needs.
Trek up the local hill, Craigellachie, for panoramic views of the National Park or tackle a stretch of the Speyside Way, which runs through the town. A walk here might also reveal the region’s prehistoric history, with clues to Bronze Age life – such as the ring stone and clava cairn – scattered throughout.
Looking to elevate your heart rate in a community setting? Participate in the weekly Parkrun, which starts at 09.00 every Saturday, or pop into CrossFit Cairngorm to work on functional strength – an essential component for multiple outdoor sports.
Ballater
Welcome to the finest of Royal Deeside, featuring scenery straight off the label of a whisky bottle or shortbread tin. This Aberdeenshire village sits on the River Dee and at the heart of numerous outdoor adventures. Take a hike up the local Munro, Lochnagar, for example, which Queen Victoria herself once climbed in 1848. Fill up with freshly-caught seafood at The Fish Shop Restaurant & Fishmongers — a nod to Scotland’s rich fishing traditions.
Blair Atholl
Head to the Perthshire corner of the Cairngorms National Park for rolling hills, idyllic waterfalls and quaint architecture. At Blair Atholl, known as the gateway to the Scottish Highlands, you’ll find all of this and more. Embark on endless walks from the village centre, explore the nearby Blair Castle, and dine and shop at The House of Bruar, an upscale department store selling local food and clothing.
Braemar
Located in the mountain scenery of stunning Aberdeenshire, Braemar is just a stone's throw away from Glenshee and hosts a charming selection of shops, galleries, restaurants and B&Bs.
In Scotland, the centuries-old tradition of the Highland Games celebrates the very best of Scottish culture – from athletics to dancing, music and more. And the Braemar Gathering is perhaps the most famous of them all. Held every first Saturday in September, the event is renowned for its royal history, which has seen the reigning monarch in attendance since 1848.
For a touch of the royal treatment yourself, stay at The Fife Arms, a boutique five-star hotel. For a unique dining experience, book into one of the hotel’s multiple restaurants to sample some of the best of Scotland’s culinary talent.
Grantown-on-Spey
Grantown-on-Spey boasts a bounty of independently owned shops, cafés and restaurants. The town oozes community spirit: evident from its bustling year-round local events – from local markets to the annual Christmas Torchlight parade.
Among the town’s much-loved eateries include The Bothy Bakery, which sells the world’s best mountain meals – from hearty focaccia sandwiches to ooey-gooey cinnamon buns – and Fiona’s Wholefoods & Refills, which serves up excellent coffee, cakes and sustainable food items.
You can also get your flow on at Katie White Yoga Studio, which offers a mix of vinyasa, hatha and restorative yoga classes.
Thank goodness, therefore, it’s also the start/end point for the SnowRoads, a scenic 90-mile road trip through the Cairngorms National Park, which tours visitors through some of the best regional roads, including the highest public road in the UK. It’s also a stopping point on the Speyside Way.
How to get there
Via car and bus
The Cairngorms National Park is part of mainland UK and easily accessible via road. The A9, a major road that runs through central Scotland, passes through the park, running parallel to popular locations including Blair Atholl, Dalwhinnie, Kingussie and Aviemore.
Several national bus routes will also drop you off in key towns, such as Aviemore, depending on where you’re travelling from.
Via train
Board a train to the Cairngorms National Park and speed through some of the most picturesque travel views in the UK.
Those venturing from London should either opt for the four-hour train ride from King’s Cross to Edinburgh Waverley, before switching to a Cairngorms-bound train, or opt for the Caledonian Sleeper, an overnight train that almost makes you feel like you’re journeying to Hogwarts. The reality destination is equally magical.
Via plane
Travelling from further afield? Select Inverness as your destination airport. From here, it takes around 30 minutes to drive south to Aviemore, which sits in the north of the National Park. Several of the major UK and European car hire companies have rental sites near the airport, including Europcar, Enterprise, National and SIXT. You can also catch a train, which will take around 40 minutes.
If you don’t mind additional post-flight driving time, landing at Edinburgh Airport is also a possibility if your plans first take you to the south of the region.
Travelling within the Cairngorms National Park
While once a major industry of the region, train stations are now few and far between in the region. You’ll likely want a car to get you from A to B, especially to visit the many hidden gems lying off the beaten track.
Otherwise, you can count on reliable bus services to journey you from the National Park’s numerous villages.