Field Guide: Assynt, Scotland

25th April 2025 | Words and pictures* by Aila Taylor (*except as credited)

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In the far north-west of Scotland, the sparsely populated region of Assynt, along with neighbouring Coigach, is one of the few places left in the UK where you will find a real sense of wilderness. With uninhabited glens, an enormous number of lochs, and big skies frequented by eagles, it is an area bound to impress anyone lucky enough to visit. Distinctive peaks such as Suilven, Quinag and Cul Mor watch over the marshland like wizened sentinels, and it is no surprise that this landscape has inspired poets such as Norman MacCraig. Shaped by the traditional crofting culture, clan wars and the Highland Clearances, this is a land steeped in history, and in the dark recesses of Assynt’s caves archaeologists have found animal bones dating back to 45,000 years ago.

Many visitors to Assynt are passing through as part of the North Coast 500 (NC500), a 516-mile driving and cycling route around the Northern Highlands. Others may be walking the 200-mile Cape Wrath Trail. Assynt and Coigach are effectively on the same peninsula, but Coigach refers to the southern half (just above Ullapool) and Assynt makes up the northern half of the region. Together, they comprise the Assynt-Coigach National Scenic Area. The landscape is so remarkable that it was also designated as a UNESCO Geopark to protect the unique geology of the area, including the Lewisian Gneiss, which are the oldest rocks to be found anywhere in Europe at 3 billion years old.

How to Get There

The largest village in Assynt, Lochinver, is served by two bus services – the 3A and the 809 – which run from Ullapool (Ullapool, in turn, can be reached by bus from Inverness). Both bus services go through Elphin and Inchnadamph, while the 809 also covers the northern tip of the peninsula including Achmelvich and Drumbeg. However, both routes have limited service, often running once or twice a day and sometimes only on weekdays – it is important to check updated timetables, as they change often (for example during school holidays).

For flexibility, it is best to drive to Assynt and Coigach, given the limited public transport. Most people will either drive across from Inverness, although you can also take scenic routes through the bordering regions of Wester Ross and north-west Sutherland. For those looking for a longer road trip, the ferry from Ullapool to Stornoway (on the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides) is a great addition.

When to Go

Although weather in Scotland is unpredictable at all times of the year, this is especially true in the period from October to April. Daylight hours are also limited in winter. However, those lucky enough to be in the area during a period of snow and blue skies will find that the steep mountains surrounded by lochs are reminiscent of Iceland or northern Norway.

Summer proposes a different challenge: Assynt is known for its damp ground characterised by extensive bogs, and this type of landscape is very attractive to midges. On still days with little wind, swarms of midges can make hiking and camping absolutely miserable. Midge season generally runs from May to September, so April is a great time to visit to make the most of longer daylight hours free from midges. Summer can still be very beautiful, but it is important to bring insect repellent and head nets in case you get unlucky with a midge-heavy day.

What to Do

Unmissable highlights in Assynt and Coigach are generally focused on the area’s incredible natural landscapes – though whether you explore these on foot or via the water is up to you. For the more experienced adventurer, expeditions both above and below ground are a big draw, with climbers and cavers both being regular visitors to the area.

Hiking

Even though the area only has two Munros, the distinctive landscape of steep peaks rising out of a low-lying expanse of bogs means that there are many spectacular hikes with wide views. Despite its mild height of 612 metres above sea level, Stac Pollaidh provides an entertaining circular walk including a rocky summit ridge. This ridge has many route options providing a ‘choose your own adventure’ scramble, usually ranging between Grade 2 and 3.

The two Munros, Ben More and Conival, are joined together by a ridge. With multiple ascent routes, imposing crags and hidden lochans, they make for a great day out – or multiple days, if you opt for wild camping in this attractive location.

But the most well-known summit in Assynt is neither a Munro nor a Corbett. At only 731 metres above sea level, Suilven’s iconic shape – characterised by steep sides, a domed summit and a sharp ridge leading to a subsidiary summit – have made it extremely popular. With a long walk-in, a lung-burning ascent to Bealach Mor, and an exposed scramble along the summit ridge, the hike takes longer than expected for a hill of its height. Other popular hills in the area include Cul Mor, Canisp and Quinag.

Other sports

Assynt is Scotland’s most popular caving region, with popular caves including Uamh an Claonite, Allt nan Uamh Stream Cave and Rana Hole. The latter includes the largest underground chamber in Scotland, known as the Great Northern Time Machine. For non-cavers, a walk to the Bone Caves in the Allt nan Uamh valley provides a fascinating day out. Bones excavated from the caves include those of polar bears, wolves, arctic fox, reindeer and lynx, many dating back to the Upper Palaeolithic period. Visiting the caves makes it feel easy to travel back in time and imagine an older, colder version of the landscape where these wild animals once thrived.

Climbing in the area is generally on sandstone and gneiss, with lots of routes on hills like Stac Pollaidh, and on the sea cliffs in Coigach. On the north-western tip of Assynt is a 60-metre sandstone sea stack known as the Old Man of Stoer. It is known as one of the ‘Big Three Scottish Sea Stacks’, alongside the Old Man of Hoy and Am Buachaille, making it a collector’s item for any keen climbers!

The compilation of a long coastline and multitude of lochs makes Assynt a brilliant location for watersports such as canoeing, paddle boarding, fishing and wild swimming. Two bothies – Glendhu and Glencoul – are best accessed by canoeing across their respective lochs from Kylesku, making for a fun overnight canoe trip. At the time of writing, there are no bolted canyoning routes in Assynt and Coigach, although this may change in future as new routes are being developed frequently. However, some of the best canyoning in the country can be found on the northern end of Wester Ross, just south of Ullapool.

Other Adventures

Ardvreck Castle is one of the most popular sightseeing spots in Assynt. Exploring the ruins of this old castle situated on the side of Loch Assynt helps to uncover the rich history of the area, as it was built in the 15th century and was the traditional seat of the MacLeods of Assynt.

In 1672, the MacLeods lost Ardvreck to the MacKenzies, following a two-week siege, and the castle deteriorated in 1795 when it was struck by lightning. A chambered cairn next to the castle demonstrates that the area has been inhabited at least since the Neolithic period. Other ruins in the area include the 18th-century Altnabradhan Mill, and Clachtoll Broch which is an old Iron Age settlement.

If you get lucky with the weather, then the white sands and turquoise waters of Achmelvich Bay are a must. It is an ideal spot for water sports, rock pooling and relaxing on the beach, in addition to being rich in wildlife. Clachtoll Beach is similar in character with white sands and light turquoise waters that make it seem almost like the Maldives (albeit somewhat colder!).

For more impressive geological features, it is worth a visit to Corrieshalloch Gorge just outside Ullapool. A Victorian suspension bridge spans the width of the deepest box canyon in Britain, formed by melting ice sheets at the end of the last ice age. At the head of the gorge, the Falls of Measach cascade into the canyon and flow 60 metres below.

As a mountainous area with lots of rain, there are many hidden waterfalls to be found, but notable ones include the Falls of Kirkaig, Wailing Widow Falls, Eas a’ Chual Aluinn, and Clashnessie Falls. The Falls of Kirkaig are especially picturesque, hidden in a wooded glen, while the impressive Eas a’ Chual Aluinn is the tallest waterfall in the United Kingdom at 200 metres – four times higher than Niagara Falls.

For shorter walks and rainy days, Culag Woods near Lochinver is a local community woodland with a range of pine forest, broadleaf forest, open glades with ponds teeming with dragonflies, and beaches at the edge of the woodland. It is a fairly small woodland, but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in variation. Another area worth visiting is Little Assynt, where a circular walk takes you past small hidden lochs dotted with islands, old ruined shielings (huts once used as shelter by shepherds) and rare fragments of temperate rainforest. Overlooked by the striking cliffs of Quinag, Little Assynt is a wildlife haven. Ongoing nature restoration work is being carried out by the Culag Community Woodlands Trust, assisted by the Little Assynt Tree Nursery run by the Scottish Wildlife Trust.

Further insight into the rich geology of the area can be found at The Rock Stop visitor centre near Kylesku. The visitor centre includes an exhibition for the GeoPark with interactive displays and a cafe overlooking Loch Glencoul.

Flora and Fauna

Given its spectacular coastline, it's no surprise that much of Assynt's wildlife is focused on the marine environment. Having said that, you can also expect to see examples of some of the most iconic land animals of the Scottish Highlands, from golden eagles and red stags to pine martens.

Assynt and Coigach are as rich in flora as they are in fauna too. Wildflowers include rare arctic-alpine species in addition to a variety of orchids. And if you venture into the remnants of the ancient Celtic rainforest that once carpeted western Britain, you can find rare species of mosses, liverworts, lichens and ferns.

Fauna

The waters around the west coast of Scotland are frequented by a range of aquatic wildlife including porpoises, dolphins, basking sharks and even minke whales. Good places for spotting these include the area around Achmelvich Bay, and the Stoer Lighthouse. Otters are often seen around the coast, including Achmelvich Bay, the White Shore beside Culage Woods, and further inland along the River Kirkaig.

On land, you are likely to spot red deer and roe deer wherever you go, and red deer in particular are now seen as a core element of the cultural landscape of the Highlands. Deer rutting season runs from September to November, where stags (male red deer) compete for mating by roaring and fighting with antlers. It can be an impressive (and a little intimidating) ritual to watch, but it is best viewed from a distance because stags can be particularly temperamental during this season.

In the woodland around the River Kirkaig, a few lucky visitors may see a pine marten. Pine marten numbers have declined significantly since the 19th century due to persecution, even becoming extinct in some areas. Habitat fragmentation due to widespread deforestation has made it more difficult for their numbers to increase again, but the northwest Highlands have remained a stronghold for this majestic mammal. Pine martens are part of the weasel family, extremely fast and blend in well with the woodland due to being covered in brown fur, apart from a striking patch of cream-coloured fur on their neck. They are mostly nocturnal, so your best time to see them during the day is around dawn or dusk.

Of all the wildlife in Assynt and Coigach, perhaps the most astonishing is the golden eagle. With wingspans sometimes greater than 2 metres, these graceful predators can be seen soaring across the sky as they hunt for prey. They are often seen breeding near Inchnadamph and Kylesku, although due to the open terrain hills like Suilven are also good for watching them. The region is also inhabited by white-tailed eagles, which became extinct in Britain by the early 20th century due to persecution and habitat destruction. However, they were reintroduced to the Isle of Rum in the 1970s, and to the peninsula of Wester Ross (just south of Coigach) in the 1990s. Now, they can sometimes be seen gliding above the rugged terrain of Assynt and Coigach. As the second-largest bird of prey in Europe (trumped only by the cinereous vulture), seeing white-tailed eagles flying above amplifies the sense of wilderness to be found in this remote part of the Highlands.

Other remarkable birds in the area include black and red throated divers (who have a population stronghold in Northwest Scotland) and arctic terns (who travel all the way from the Antarctic to breed in Scotland). Wading birds such as whimbrel, ringed plovers and black-tailed godwits frequent the Culkein Stoer peninsula. The wildlife in Assynt and Coigach is as varied as its landscapes, and binoculars are a worthy addition to any packing list.

Flora

Assynt and Coigach are as rich in flora as they are in fauna due to the diverse range of habitats. Wildflowers include rare arctic-alpine species such as mountain avens and purple saxifrage, in addition to a variety of orchids. A range of wildflowers that you might spot in the region can be found on the website of the Assynt Field Club. For more detailed information, you can also download the book Flora of Assynt from their website for free.

A lot of rare flora can also be found in the remaining fragments of temperate rainforest (also known as Celtic rainforest), a unique habitat created by a combination of a temperate climate and high average rainfall. Ancient rainforests can be found tucked away beside remote lochs or secluded streams, such as Gleannan nan Caorach near Kylesku. These forests protect a range of rare species of mosses, liverworts, lichens and ferns, such as filmy ferns and tree lungwort.

Where to Stay

Finding the right place to stay is key to experiencing the area's wild beauty. From cosy bothies and traditional croft cottages to eco-lodges and friendly B&Bs, accommodation here reflects the region's charm and tranquility. Whether you prefer rustic seclusion or a base for outdoor adventures, Assynt and Coigach offers sufficient accommodation to ensure a memorable Highland escape.

Hotels and hostels

Hotels and hostels are somewhat limited in Assynt and Coigach due to the remoteness of the region and the small local population. Hotels can be found in Drumbeg, Kylesku, and Lochinver, and there are hostels at Achmelvich (with the hostel situated right next to the beach), Inchnadamph, and Lochinver. A greater range of accommodation options can be found in Ullapool, which is a good base for exploring Coigach, but a bit far away to be convenient for exploring the northern end of Assynt. Scotland's only caving hut, run by the Grampian Speleological Group, is based in Elphin. This is near the border between Assynt and Coigach, so it is a good central location for visiting places like the Bone Caves, Stac Pollaidh and Suilven.

Bothies

There are three bothies run by the Mountain Bothies Association in the area: Suileag, at the base of Suilven, and Glencoul and Glendhu, across the loch from Kylesku. Due to its proximity to Suilven and Lochinver, Suileag is often visited, while Glencoul and Glendhu are more likely to provide solitude.

Camping

There are a range of campsites in Assynt and Coigach, with most of these being situated along the Achmelvich coast due to its position on the NC500 route. As a result, these have a diversity of options including glamping and campervan spots. The campsites around the Assynt coast will usually be busier than those in Coigach, but for those looking for a cheaper and wilder experience, wild camping may be a more attractive option. Wild camping is generally allowed on unenclosed land in Scotland as long as campers follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code. The terrain of expansive bogs interspersed with vertical cliffs can make wild camping spots more difficult to find, as neither of these are ideal for a tent! Valleys such as Gleann Dubh and Allt nan Uamh have some flat, less boggy sections, and the areas around Ardvreck Castle and Wailing Widow Falls are also popular. On nights with little wind, where midges may be gathering in the glens, flat summits such as Glas Bheinn will provide secluded camping spots with far-reaching views.

Where to Eat and Drink

The most famous eatery in Assynt is the Lochinver Larder, famous for its delicious homemade pies, with a multitude of sweet and savoury options. Also in Lochinver, Peet's Restaurant provides a seasonal menu with a focus on local seafood. The restaurant attached to Kylesku Hotel includes large windows with spectacular views across the loch, and can be a good addition to a rainy day.

In Coigach, Fuaran Bar in Altandhu has an extremely cosy interior, with walls decorated in historical artefacts and a roaring fire in the wood-burning stove. The Summer Isles Bar, attached to the Summer Isles Hotel, is another good spot for local seafood.

There is a small Spar in Lochinver, and a couple of small village stores (with limited opening hours) dotted around the region, but the nearest large supermarket is in Ullapool, so it is advisable to bring food with you at the start of the trip.

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Aila (formerly Anna) Taylor is an outdoor writer and mountain activist. She has previously published in the Guardian, The Independent, Vice and i-D magazines, amongst others. As an avid caver, hiker and cold-water swimmer, Aila is passionate about improving accessibility to the outdoors in addition to spreading awareness about the threats currently facing mountain regions.