Field Guide: Accursed Mountains, Albania
September 30, 2024Albania is gradually giving up its travel secrets after decades of isolation under communism. It is a country in transition, where tourism is increasingly becoming a pivotal part of everyday life, as the world discovers its wealth of natural wonders and warm hospitality. But while most head to the coast for pristine beaches and crystal- clear azure seas, its rugged north has managed to slip under the touristic radar – and is all the better for it.
For here you’ll find some of Europe’s finest wilderness areas in the Accursed Mountains, also known as the Albanian Alps. This is a wild mountain range with 125 miles of hiking trails that are every bit as impressive as the alpine settings to be found in Austria, Switzerland, France or Italy. Forming the southernmost section of the Dinaric Alps, the peaks stretch over 40 miles from Lake Skadar, along the border with Montenegro, all the way to Kosovo.
Explore the awe-inspiring national parks of Theth and Valbona Valley, discover the picturesque region of Kelmendi, and you’ll be rewarded with a unique flavour of outdoor adventure – one that can take you away from the crowds and commercialism, and deep into nature as it should be.
In the valleys, smallholdings and farmsteads move with nature’s rhythms, offering the freshest of local produce to keep your energy levels up – the goats' cheese and honey providing moments of bliss between ascents. Whether you choose to reach the highest peak of Maja Jezerce at 2,694m, or spend your time chilling out in the vibrantly tinted natural springs and meandering rivers, the Accursed Mountains will soon cast its spell over you.
How to get there
The easiest way is to fly to the frenetic capital, Tirana, where you can then pick up a hire car. From there, it’s around a four-hour journey to the Alps region. There are now plenty of airlines flying regularly to Albania at affordable rates, and no shortage of hire car companies dotted along the main roads outside of the airport terminal. Just make sure you contact them to give them a heads-up if you’re delayed, or you risk losing your booking.
Driving in Albania
Presumably there are rules of the road in Albania, but very few folk seem to follow them. Anything goes, so keep your wits about you. Confident drivers will be fine, but if you’re not, best to navigate instead.
The quality of the roads is, however, good, with an abundance of petrol stations along main routes – but some only accept cash [Euros or Lek]. Take it easy when you get to the mountain passes. Most are barely wide enough for two cars, with a paucity of suitable passing places. And watch out for animals on the road – wild goats and feral horses are a common occurrence.
Lastly, don’t be tempted to drink and drive – their alcohol limit is virtually zero and strictly enforced.
When to go
May to October for hiking when the weather is generally dry and hot with the occasional thunderstorm thrown in to keep you on your toes. Although the sweet spot within that is mid-September, when the crowds have gone, the temperatures have dropped and the oak and beech forests begin to show their autumnal hues.
The Accursed Mountains are also a great destination for skiing, with the season running from December to March and heavy snowfall commonplace. Be warned, temperatures can plummet to –20°c mid-winter.
Hiking and hillwalking
The Albanian Alps offer a great variety of small, medium and long-range walks of varying difficulties that cater for all abilities and experience levels. Let’s begin with one of the most popular hikes: from the village of Theth to Valbona Peak.
Up and down for the moderately fit will take around six hours. Start early to avoid the worst of the summer heat on the ascent – it’s a relentlessly steep climb. But be glad these verdant slopes are covered with dense forest – the shade is your friend.
After parking up near the village shop, make your way uphill along a rocky track that weaves its way up the hillside. You’ll find signposts and plenty of markers along the way, as well as one or two – friendly – stray dogs to keep you company. There’s a well-maintained path virtually all of the way up, making navigation easy in clear weather. And should you lose your bearings, the locals are happy to point you in the right direction.
Around 90 minutes in, you get a respite from the gradient at an idyllic alpine meadow, full of wildflowers, shrubs and a multitude of butterflies. Then it’s back into beech forest for another 45 minutes before you come to a cafe perched on the mountainside. It serves a tasty milk and honey crepe-cake creation that delivers a serious sugar hit to boost your energy levels.
The terrain from now on gets gradually steeper, with mud and leaves replaced with loose rock and gravel. It’s just under an hour from here to Valbona Pass, and then a further ten minutes up to the 1,795m peak, which you reach with a quick scramble at the end. The views on a clear day are breath-taking, with a vast valley to gaze down on towards Valbona. Then return the same way you came up.
If you’re looking for something less strenuous the next day – that includes an area to camp – you should definitely make time to visit the Blue Eye; a beautiful natural spring pool with aquamarine water of amazing clarity. Located five miles south of Theth, it’s a 45-minute to one-hour hike from the parking area on a trail flanked by mature forest, taking you up the valley, and then down towards the riverbed. Look out for the red and white stone markers.
Beyond the river, you’ll reach a rickety-looking bridge that will briefly test your nerve and balance, before descending wooden ladder steps to the Blue Eye. Take a dip in the cool, revitalising water, or just relax by the side with a cold beer from one of the nearby stalls. Don’t try climbing the rock faces around it though to dive in as it’s really unstable. If you do decide to camp before retracing your steps, you’re in for a treat. With so little light pollution for miles around, your stargazing will be a spellbinding experience.
For those seeking a true sense of wilderness – and a demanding climb – the Albanian Alps’ highest summit of Maja Jezerce is waiting for you in the Valbona Valley. Set aside at least ten hours for this during the summer – a winter climb is doable but will take at least another three hours. If you’re attempting the latter, crampons and an ice axe are a must, and a helmet is advisable due to rockfalls.
If you make it near the top, you’ll find a fixed rope in place for added peace of mind if conditions get treacherous. Your reward will be some of the best views anywhere in Europe, in a place that feels almost untouched by human activity. Just remember to pack a map or ensure you have GPS – the trails are easily missed and confused. Technically challenging in places, it’s not one for the inexperienced.
Other adventures
If seeing the mountains at walking pace is too sedate for you, try the 1,200-metre zipline on the outskirts of Theth. You can share this unforgettable experience with a friend or family member, as the wire allows two people to go down side-by-side. And then when you hop off, there’s a van waiting to take you back up the hill.
Take a boat ride over Lake Koman and through canyons of the Drin River. Or immerse yourself in the tropical-esque waters of the Shala River, flowing through limestone gorges. Here you can partake in guided rafting and kayaking tours where fast-flowing white water is guaranteed.
Head to the Valbona Valley for skiing. You’ll discover quiet slopes to suit various skill levels and warm hospitality that shows off the best traditions of Albania in a less commercialised setting compared with most of Europe. Day or multi-day passes can be purchased and snow conditions are highly regarded.
Flora and fauna
The Albanian Alps are a biodiversity hotspot. Brown bear, wolf and Balkan lynx roam the forests of oak, beech and spruce. Wild boar snuffle through the leaf litter, and chamois cling to precipitous high-altitude slopes. Rivers brimming with fish such as marble and brown trout are the hunting ground for healthy populations of otter.
Birdlife is bountiful too, the region being home to an impressive variety of raptors that include honey buzzard, golden eagle, snake eagle, peregrine falcon and the mystical Eurasian Eagle-Owl. The otherworldly calls of Western capercaillie – the world’s largest grouse – reverberate through woodland at dawn. And the Accursed Mountains are a haven for at least 140 species of butterfly – making it one of the greatest strongholds for them in all of Europe.
Also keep an eye out for rock lizards on your hikes, often to be found warming up in the sun. The range is home to one endemic species, the Prokletije rock lizard, first described in 2007.
The area’s plant life is equally rich and diverse, and home to a number of endemic and rare species. The Albanian Alps is an area relatively untouched by human modification, and so much of what you find is as nature intended – wild and ecologically intact. There’s impressive mature native forest cover at all elevations, with oak woodland at lower levels giving way to beech, pine and spruce, before morphing into montane woodland including juniper and then alpine bluegrass at the highest points. With over 1,600 plant species identified, the vegetation of the Accursed Mountains is among the richest in the Balkan Peninsula.
Where to stay, eat and drink
With tourism still in its infancy in the area, you won’t – thankfully – find any fancy hotels. But there are plenty of charming guesthouses to be found, as well as campsites. The guesthouses are run by locals, and often have a smallholding attached with fresh produce making its way to your dinner table. The platters of traditional food are always delicious and interesting – served tapas style, usually all at once so you can dive in for an assortment of tastes. Prices for accommodation vary quite a bit, but are generally affordable. If you take the camping route, you’ll need to bring your own gear, but the sites are usually free.
Theth
Gateway to the National Park and a really useful base for the Accursed region in general, you’ll find no shortage of guesthouses in and around this village, with the majority of the most enticing ones hidden away up the valley on hillsides that give you fantastic vantage points to the mountain range that will be an ever-present feature during your stay. There’s a small supermarket in the village, and a handful of restaurants and cafes scattered throughout the valley. The trout and lamb dishes in particular are scrumptious.
For a little luxury and the best situation in town, get booked up with Valter & Drita’s Guesthouse on the outskirts of Theth village. Here you’ll receive the warmest of welcomes in an instantly homely environment. Try their chilled red wine and relax. Then in the morning, gorge yourself at the mouthwatering buffet breakfast.
Another family-run guesthouse that serves up a calming, friendly atmosphere and flavour-packed traditional home cooking is Bujtina Carku. The dining area overlooks the valley below and three dramatic peaks, while the cosy rooms give you comfy beds. For an authentic insight into rural Albanian life, it’s hard to beat. Best to take cash for this one as the card machine is unreliable.
Valbona
Valbona Eco Camping is open from the start of April to the end of September, and comes highly rated. It’s small but well-equipped with bathrooms, showers and drinkable water on-site, along with electric power to accommodate up to 10 campers. A small hotel in the middle of the site gives you a minibar and Wi-Fi, while barbecues and firewood can be provided for an additional cost. There are four pitches in total and dogs are welcome through the season. There’s a children’s playground here too, as well as bicycle hire.
Located in the Valbona Valley, the Oda N’ Bjeshke guesthouse combines the modern with tradition. Decompress from your day’s exertions in their inviting restaurant, before retreating to the well-appointed rooms. Room service is available at an extra cost.
Shala River
Situated right next to the sparkling river, your stay at the Bee Eco Guesthouse – owned by a couple of apiarists – will be a memorable one. Pinewood rooms await, in a setting so picturesque, you may not want to leave. There’s a restaurant, bar and coffee shop on-site, as well as opportunities to purchase local produce and souvenirs. The ideal base for nature-lovers, let your day ebb and flow before cooling off in the shallow waters before dinner. This is an off-grid retreat for those looking to escape the trappings of modern-day life – and that includes internet access.