‘Stravaigin’ In The Cairngorms | The Story of Nan Shepherd
January 22, 2024“Yet often the mountain gives itself most completely when I have no destination, when I reach nowhere in particular, but have gone out merely to be with the mountain as one visits a friend with no intention but to be with him.”
- Nan Shepherd, ‘The Living Mountain ’
‘Stravaigin’ is an old Scots word that means ‘to wander aimlessly with intent’ or ‘to roam about casually’. Far from the adrenaline-fuelled escapades of extreme outdoor sports; it’s an intuitive and contemplative way of moving through the world, and, as Nan Shepherd might have argued, through life.
A novelist, poet, essayist, and hillwalker, Shepherd (1893-1981) was – and still is – a unique inspiration to the outdoor world. In an industry where hundreds of books that are published about mountains (and the outdoors) are written by men, Shepherd remains as influential as ever for nature enthusiasts throughout the UK and beyond.
Instead of walking ‘up’ mountains and bagging peaks, she wrote of walking ‘into’ mountains and therefore into ourselves. The idea was to abandon the notion that the summit is the ‘organising principle of a mountain’, and rather, view the mountain as a whole – an adventure in and of itself.
She writes: ‘One does not look upwards to spectacular peaks but downwards from the peaks to spectacular chasms’, for ’a mountain has an inside’.
Like many environmental theories today, Shepherd viewed humans as part of the whole, or rather, as part of a life ‘beyond’ ourselves. As one goes stravaigin’ past winding rivers, ancient Scots pine woodlands, and mountain paths scattered with long-trodden tales of folklore and adventure; one gets to know the ins and outs of the whole mountain, and by extension, the whole self.
Early Life
Whilst there is much to be inferred from the words in her books, little is actually known about her personal life. Notoriously elusive, what we do know is that Anna ‘Nan’ Shepherd was born and bred in the beautiful wilds of Scotland. More specifically, in Cults, west of Aberdeen.
Born on the 11th February 1893, Shepherd resided in and around Cults for the majority of her life, a handy location for exploring the epic Cairngorms National Park and the Grampian Mountain Range. She attended Aberdeen High School for Girls, later graduating from the University of Aberdeen, and subsequently lecturing for the Aberdeen College of Education.
She retired from teaching in 1956 but edited the Aberdeen University Review until 1963. A quiet non-conformist of her time, Shepherd never married, though is rumoured to have had a lover. She travelled widely, visiting places such as Norway, France, Italy, Greece, and South Africa; though always returned to her home in Aberdeenshire. She led a life dedicated to her writing, her students, her family and friends, and the wonders of the natural world.
Written Works
Regarded as one of the greatest pieces of nature writing to this day, Sheperd is best known for her book The Living Mountain. Written during World War II but not published until 1977, it’s a lyrical meditation on her experiences walking in the Cairngorms; an exploration of a lifetime’s discoveries in the hills. It is in this book that many of Shepherd’s philosophies on walking in nature are found.
Within these personal philosophies and poetic observations, you’ll also find astute descriptions of the ecology, geology and history of the landscape. Indeed, the descriptions are so accurate that many admirers of her work have followed directly in her footsteps, spotting specific landmarks and musings from the book along the way.
Prior to this, Shepherd published three novels touching on a variety of topics including life in rural, Scottish communities, as well as the role of women at the time. Her first novel, The Quarry Wood (1928), for example, portrays the lives of women in Scotland in the 1920s, including familial pressures, the struggle for independence, and a longing for a life beyond the norm. It is thought to be the most biographical of all her novels, with the protagonist Martha Ironside being a version of the author herself.
Infused with beautifully bucolic descriptions of nature, Shepherd went on to write The Weatherhouse (1930), A Pass in the Grampians (1933), and, finally, The Living Mountain (1977), her non-fiction memoir. Drawing inspiration from the people and places of Northeast Scotland, Shepherd’s fictional works focus on country life and the harsh reality of the landscapes.
But as a poet, essayist and keen letter writer too, discovering the variety and depths of Shepherd’s works is an adventure in and of itself.
Legacy
In recent years, Shepherd has been appreciated by a whole new generation of readers. This is, in part, thanks to the inclusion of The Living Mountain in Canongate’s ‘Canon’ series, as well as Shepherd’s appearance on the Royal Bank of Scotland £5 note. Whatever the reason, it’s quite amazing to see the influence she still has on people.
Take Elise Wortley, for example. Following in Nan Shepherd’s footsteps, Wortley quite literally took to the hills of bonnie Scotland. Kitted out with a 1940s tent, a long tweed jacket, a jumper, some woollen tights and a pair of socks, Wortley went walking in the Cairngorms in 2019, taking authenticity to a whole new level.
Just last year, even, a team of 10 women followed Shepherd’s footsteps hoping to ‘explore what happens if we slow down, wander and connect with the natural world’. With a diverse team consisting of ecologists, film makers, photographers, mountaineers and more; they spent four days in the Scottish Highlands, imbued with the spirit of Nan. They’re actually fundraising to make a film about their expedition, aiming to inspire young women in the outdoors and highlight environmental change. You can read all about it and donate here: gofundme.com/following-nan-expedition.
There’s even a literary prize named after her. Founded in 2019, the Nan Shepherd Prize is a competition to find the next voice in nature writing. Focusing on underrepresented voices, the prize runs biannually. The winner of the prize receives a book deal with Canongate, amongst other support.
Whilst I could go on to list countless other individuals and organisations inspired by Shepherd’s works, perhaps one of her greatest legacies is her effects on nature itself. In a world where the climate crisis becomes more and more apparent each day, Shepherd’s philosophies about our interconnectedness to nature matters now more than ever. Ahead of her time, she encourages us to engage with nature on a much deeper level, thinking about our place in alignment with nature, rather than at the centre of it all.
She describes herself as a ‘peerer into nooks and crannies’ and inspires us to slow down, and examine, appreciate and feel the presence of nature as we move through it. Acclaimed nature writer Robert Macfarlane describes this as a kind of ‘pilgrimage’ through nature, challenging the very essence of how adventurers view mountains.
A writer, walker and arguably a philosopher; it’s no wonder Shepherd’s ruminations are still poignant today. With the culture shifting towards a more holistic view of people and their relationship with nature, the humble observations from The Living Mountain ring truer each day.
Talking about the changing landscapes of the Cairngorms in later years, and the impacts of tourism, amongst other things, Shepherd wrote: ‘All these are matters that involve man. But behind them is the mountain itself, its substance, its strength, its weathers. It is fundamental to all that man does to it or on it.’