Ultimate Guide to Head Torches and Camp Lanterns
January 15, 2026Picture this: you start pitching up for a perfect wild camp when the setting sun disappears behind the ridge and suddenly you can't see a thing. Or you're descending from a late evening summit-grab when dusk falls faster than expected. Or – and this happens more than anyone likes to admit – you wake up in your tent at 3am, desperate for a wee, frantically pawing at the door trying to find the zipper. In all these scenarios, there's one piece of kit that transforms mild inconvenience into manageable reality: a decent head torch.
Unlike a handheld torch, a head torch keeps your hands free for the important stuff – pegging out flysheets, cooking camp meals, scrambling over rocky terrain, or holding a hot mug of cocoa whilst you contemplate the universe under a star-studded sky. It's the difference between bumbling about like a confused moth and actually being able to do things properly when darkness falls.
But here's the thing: a head torch isn't just for winter camping trips or midnight toilet missions. Even if you're heading out on a glorious summer's day with sunset hours away, you should still pack one. Why? Because mountains don't care about your itinerary. Get caught out by deteriorating weather, an injury, or simply misjudging your pace, and that little light on your forehead could be what gets you safely off the hill – or helps rescuers find you if things go properly sideways.
The same logic applies to camp lanterns, which are brilliant for creating a cosy basecamp atmosphere and providing ambient light without having to wear a head torch all evening (nobody wants that red indent across their forehead at bedtime).
But with dozens of brands and hundreds of models out there, choosing the right illumination can feel bewildering. So, let's shine some light on the subject and help you find the perfect torch for your adventures.
The ANSI-FL1 standard
Without wanting to get too geeky straight away, it's worth highlighting something called the ANSI/NEMA FL1-2009 Standard. This is a set of flashlight performance guidelines. It was developed in the USA but is currently the closest thing there is to a global 'industry standard' for head torches. It was introduced to try and make direct comparisons between products easier for consumers, and to stop manufacturers making misleading marketing claims about light performance.
Adherence to the FL1 standard is voluntary, but most established manufacturers have adopted it. The tests measure a range of key performance criteria, including light output in lumens, beam distance (in metres), runtime (in hours), ingress protection (a rating of dustproofing and water resistance) and impact resistance (in metres – basically, if you can drop your head torch on a hard floor without it breaking).
If a product has been tested according to the FL1 standard, it will generally be referenced alongside any claims about brightness, battery life, beam distance and waterproofing. Most of the lighting brands we sell at WildBounds use the standard, including Black Diamond, Petzl and Silva. The major exception is South Korean newcomer Claymore (we're told they're working on it). But having tested their lights and lanterns extensively, we’re confident that their claims are genuine.
Having said that, the FL1 standard isn't perfect. There are some limitations to it – but knowing what these are will still help consumers to make informed choices. For example, by far the most criticised element of the FL1 standard is how it measures runtimes, which we've covered in more detail in the section on battery life or 'burn time'.
Brightness
The brightness of a head torch or lantern is measured in lumens (lm), which quantifies the perceived power of visible light. This is different from how your gran's old light bulbs were sold – those were measured in watts, which is actually about energy consumption rather than how bright something is.
So how many lumens do you need? Well, it depends what you're up to. For pottering around camp – cooking dinner, finding your toothbrush, reading your book – anywhere from 100 to 300 lumens will do the job nicely. Planning to navigate at night? You'll want 300 to 500 lumens to properly light your way. And if you're bombing along trails in the dark or doing anything fast-paced, then 500-750 lumens (or more) is where you want to be.
Obviously, brighter generally means heavier and more expensive, so think honestly about whether you actually need your head torch to be able to put out the Bat-Signal. For most wild camping and backpacking adventures, you really don't.
Here's where it gets slightly tricky: manufacturers love to shout about their maximum lumen output, but sometimes this refers to a brief "boost mode" that only lasts a few seconds before the battery protests and the light drops back down. Always check the specs to see what brightness the head torch can actually maintain for at least an hour or two – that's the figure that matters.
And here's a final curveball: sometimes a head torch with more lumens isn't actually "brighter" in any useful sense. That comes down to factors like LED efficiency and beam optics (how the reflector and lens are designed). Think of lumens as the raw horsepower – it's how that power gets delivered that determines whether you've got something useful or just a very expensive paperweight. Examples: a fluorescent strip light has high output but little intensity, while a laser has low output but insane intensity in a tiny, focused beam. Neither would make a great head torch, but they demonstrate the principle perfectly.
Beam distance
Beam distance is usually the second thing you'll see listed alongside brightness (lumens). This figure tells you how far the head torch throws its beam in metres – or in other words, how far you'll be able to see.
It might seem that the longer the beam, the better, but this generally means you get a narrow, highly focused spotlight. This is great for picking out distant objects, so it can be a real benefit when you're navigating at night. But spot beams are too intense to be useful for close-range, proximity tasks. Nor do they provide a sufficiently wide pool of light to allow you to see what's around you (e.g. to make sure you're not tripping over tree roots, boulders or a sleeping grizzly).
For these scenarios, a more diffused and evenly spread of light is preferable. This is known as a floodlight setting. Some head torches allow you to switch from spot to flood beam, while others use multiple LEDs or clever beam optics to balance the spread of light.
Light modes
Most head torches and camp lanterns have several modes, enabling you to toggle between different brightness settings, and/or adjust the spread and intensity of the beam. In some cases, you can also adjust the colour temperature of the light (e.g. from cool white through to warmer yellow), which can help to create a more pleasant campsite ambience and reduce eye strain. The most advanced head torches also feature reactive lighting, which automatically adjusts the beam to your surroundings, enabling true hands-free operation.
In addition, many units boast a red-light mode, intended for low light scenarios. Red light is useful for preserving your night vision. Some may also have green and blue light settings for specialist situations like wildlife tracking or map-reading. A strobe setting is also useful for attracting attention or alerting others, e.g. in an SOS or emergency situation, or if you're walking/running in urban areas or along busy roads at night. Head torches primarily aimed at runners will often have a rear red light with constant or flashing settings for the same reason.
Most modern head torches are very easy to use, with just one or two buttons. Make sure that these can be operated whilst wearing gloves – you want robust, chunky buttons that are easy to locate and operate. If the unit has multiple buttons, ensure they can be distinguished by touch alone. Many manufacturers make sure they're different shapes or have raised tactile surfaces so they're easy to tell apart.
Either way, switching between light modes should be intuitive and hassle-free. And it's worth making the most of the various modes to preserve battery life. For example, if you're sitting around camp waiting for your JetBoil to do its thing (the camping equivalent of watching paint dry), there's no need to have your head torch blazing out on max power – switch it to the low power or eco setting.
Battery life or 'runtime'
Battery life (also called runtime or burn time) is crucial – there's nothing quite like the sinking feeling of your head torch dying when you're mid-way through something important, like navigating off a mountain or trying to find your tent in a crowded campsite.
Brands indicate battery life by stating how long a head torch will last in each mode, and this should be tested according to the ANSI-FL1 standard. However – and this is important – this is where the FL1 standard gets a bit wobbly.
Here's the issue: as most batteries discharge, their voltage drops, which means that light output would naturally decrease over time. Good head torches have clever circuitry that regulates this, keeping the brightness relatively constant until the battery gives up entirely. Cheaper ones... don't do this so well. The problem is that the FL1 standard only measures how long a head torch runs from 30 seconds after switch-on (with fresh batteries) until the output drops to 10% of the initial level. It doesn't show you how the brightness decays during that time, which can vary massively.
Let's imagine three head torches, all claiming 300 lumens maximum output. Head torch A gives you 1hr 30 mins runtime, but stays at virtually full brightness the entire time before dying dramatically. Head torch B manages 2 hours, but the light gradually dims throughout. Head torch C boasts 3 hours runtime, and while it's not quite as consistent as A, it still maintains around 50% of its max brightness for the full period.
Based purely on runtime claims, you'd think C is best, followed by B, then A. But actually? Head torch A is far superior to B for most uses, while C would only be the best choice if you prioritise extended runtime over maximum brightness. Without detailed runtime graphs (which most manufacturers don't publish), it's genuinely difficult to compare like-for-like.
The takeaway? Don't just look at maximum runtime figures – try to find out how well the head torch maintains its brightness throughout that period. In particular, look for head torches with constant or regulated light modes.
Battery type and capacity
So what actually determines how long your head torch will run? While LED components and circuitry play a role, it's mostly about battery type and capacity.
Older head torches typically run on AA or AAA alkaline batteries. There's still merit to this approach: when you're stuck at a remote petrol station somewhere in the Scottish Highlands and your head torch has died, you can nip in and grab replacements. Plus, if you're environmentally conscious (and you should be), nothing stops you using rechargeable AAs or AAAs rather than single-use types – just make sure you carry pre-charged spares.
However, most modern head torches now use USB-rechargeable lithium-ion batteries, either built-in or as a removable pack. Both designs have their pros and cons. Removable packs let you swap a dead battery pack for a fresh one instantly – brilliant for extended trips, allowing you to keep on truckin’. Built-in batteries offer simplicity and one less thing to lose. Either way, look for USB-C charging rather than the older micro-USB technology, which charges at snail pace by comparison.
Some head torches offer "hybrid compatibility" – they'll run on either lithium-ion packs or standard AA/AAAs, giving you added flexibility. Handy, though performance can vary depending on which battery type you're using. You generally don’t get the same punchy brightness or extended runtime from alkalines compared to lithium-ion.
The other trade-off with higher-capacity batteries is weight and bulk. A beefier battery means a bigger, heavier head torch. Sometimes this requires mounting the battery pack on the rear of the headband to keep everything balanced and comfortable – which isn't necessarily a bad thing.
In fact, some rear-battery head torches let you plug into an external power bank via USB for marathon runtime. This is called pass-through charging, meaning you can charge while using the head torch without frying the circuitry. Keep a power bank in your rucksack lid or running vest chest pocket, run a cable to your head torch, and you're basically sorted from dusk ‘til dawn.
That said, all-in-one head torches (where the LED array and battery are in a single compact unit) are generally the most convenient for most people. Just accept that runtimes will be shorter than models with chunky rear-mounted battery packs.
Weight and bulk
The lightest head torches on the market weigh under 50g, while the heaviest weigh 200g or more. How much this matters depends on your intended use. Night hikers and wild campers might be prepared to carry a slightly heavier, bulkier head torch with a big battery for longer-lasting, brighter performance. On the other hand, if you want a back-up head torch for emergency use to keep in the top of your pack 'just in case', then a light and compact head torch will be best. Trail runners might want something bright and lightweight but probably won’t be so bothered about mega-long burn times, since unless you’re Jasmin Paris, even on your longest runs you won’t be out for more than a few hours.
Comfort
The strap is an often overlooked but very important element of any head torch. It needs to hold the lamp securely to your head without slipping but also be comfortable enough not to lacerate your forehead or squeeze your brain like an overripe melon.
Most head torches have a single elasticated headband, but bulkier models or those designed for high-tempo activities like running will also have an overhead centre strap to prevent bouncing. Whatever the strap design, make sure it has enough adjustment to fit your swede even if you're wearing a chunky beanie hat or a climbing helmet. Although if you want to wear your head torch while climbing or biking, many brands also produce separate mounts that enable you to remove the strap and clip the light unit directly to your helmet.
If you're looking at head torches with rear battery packs, make sure the cable attaching the LED light unit to the battery is a low-profile design that won't get snagged or caught in tree branches or jacket hoods.
Other features
Various other features of a head torch can make a big difference to their overall practicality and user-friendliness whilst you're camping in the hills or backpacking on the trail.
Light angle and adjustability
Being able to tilt the front light unit is really useful, since it means you can direct the light exactly where you want it – say, downwards if you're map-reading or crossing tricky terrain, or straight out in front if you're trying to pick out distant landscape features for navigation purposes. Almost all good head torches will allow you to do this to some extent, but some models offer considerably more adjustment than others. Just make sure the bracket used to attach the light unit to the headband is sturdy and stiff enough for the light to stay put when you position it at the desired angle.
Button lock
Even the most powerful head torch is useless if you accidentally turn it on while it's buried in your pack, and it spends all day illuminating everything inside your rucksack as you're hiking, draining that precious battery life the whole time.
That's why many head torches have a button lock to prevent accidental operation if they get knocked around. This usually entails holding a button for several seconds or multiple buttons simultaneously to engage 'lock mode' (the light will flash to let you know that it's locked). If your head torch lacks this option, you might want to take the battery pack or batteries out while it's not in use, to guard against accidents.
Battery life indicator
Another useful feature that is increasingly common is a battery life indicator. This is generally a coloured LED or series of LEDs that flash or briefly illuminate during power on/off. It lets you know how much battery life is left, which prevents you from being plunged into darkness without warning.
Light memory
Head torches get cleverer all the time, but one of the handiest features we’ve encountered on modern models is a memory setting. This means that the light stays on its last selected setting when you switch it off and on again, rather than reverting to a default mode that then means cycling through loads of different brightness modes to get back to the setting you want.
For example, if you’re spending the night in a crowded mountain hut with a load of fellow climbers, it means that you can put your head torch in red light mode before drifting off to sleep. Then, when you get up for that pre-dawn alpine start, it’ll stay in red light when you switch it back on, rather than reverting to default white light mode, waking everyone up and making you deeply unpopular. Which also means less frustrated button-mashing and no ruined night vision.
Pouches and carry cases
Many higher end head torches and camp lanterns are bundled with carry cases or pouches, which are useful for storage and transport. Hard cases can protect head torches and lanterns from being bumped around in your pack, while soft pouches are often made from translucent material and fitted with drawcords for hanging. This means you can easily suspend your head torch inside your tent or around camp, creating a makeshift camp lantern that gives out a softer, more diffused light. While not essential, this can be a practical added extra.
Impact resistance
Most modern head torches are pretty robust, especially compared to older headlamps that used delicate filament bulbs. Obviously, it's still not a great idea to deliberately chuck yours around or bounce it off the nearest rock. Still, accidents do happen, so we need them to be tough enough to survive being jostled around inside a backpack and so on.
Luckily, the ANSI FL1 standard measures impact resistance via a 'drop test'. Each test unit is dropped (with batteries installed) from a height of at least 1 metre onto hardened concrete. To pass the test, a head torch is required to remain functional with no cracks or breaks after six drops in different orientations. The resulting rating is the height in metres from which the head torch successfully withstands the drop.
Waterproofing and ingress protection
All reputable head torches also get an ingress protection (IP) rating, which specifies the unit's resistance to dust and water. IP ratings consist of two digits. The first digit represents dust protection, rated on a scale from zero to six, with six being the most protective.
Not all head torches are tested for dust ingress, and in that case, you may see an IP rating of IPX followed by a number (e.g. IPX4). Since water is much better at getting into electronic equipment than dust, as long as the moisture protection rating is high enough (usually 4+), you don't really need to worry about the first number.
The second digit is critical though. This one relates to moisture ingress, again with higher numbers indicating better water resistance. Common ratings are:
- IPX4 – resistant to water splashed from all directions ('showerproof' or 'splashproof')
- IPX6 – protected against powerful water jets from any direction (highly resistant to heavy rain and forceful water)
- IPX7 – waterproof, can withstand temporary submersion at 1 metre depth for 30 minutes
- IPX8 – waterproof, can withstand continuous submersion at 1 metre depth for 4 hours
Generally, for outdoor use we’d recommend looking for a head torch or camp lantern with a minimum IP rating of 4+ for water resistance. Disregard anything that claims to be ‘waterproof’ or ‘water resistant’ but doesn’t have an IP rating, as it’s usually meaningless. This includes those junk lights with the LED strips that are all over your social media feeds. We’ve tried ‘em, and they don’t last.
Choosing your head torch
All this has probably told you that there's no single ‘best’ head torch – it all depends on how you plan to use it. A lightweight, compact model with modest runtime might be perfect as an emergency backup, while serious night navigation calls for something brighter with longer battery life. Trail runners need a balance of power and weight, while multi-day backpackers might prioritise extended runtime over everything else.
Think about your typical adventures, consider which features actually matter for where, when and how you run, camp or hike, and remember that a reliable head torch is one of those bits of kit you'll never regret packing. Even if you only need it once, you'll be bloody glad it's there.